Go Fuck a Dinosaur
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 850 ft (258 m), 10 pitches|
|FA:||Andy Lecuyer, Gary McQuaid, Maya Lecuyer|
|Page Views:||108 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Gary McQuaid on Jul 24, 2022|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
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The route is not particularly run out, but the distance to the first bolt (6 meters) is a good indication of the spacing and climbing difficulty of other runouts on a few other sections of the climb.
P1: Climb 6 meters of low angle easy terrain, on the left side of a waterfall to a bolt. Climb a few more meters to and a ledge where the climbing turns to casual 4th class. Continue climbing on the left side of the waterfall until at the base of right facing corner. 5.4. 33m. Bolt.
P2: Climb the corner on bolts and gear. Continue on the left arete. Traverse right, across corner using flake. Continue up a slab until reaching a steep headwall and rappel anchors. Traverse right on 4th class terrain to a big leg with a single bolt as a belay. 5.7. 30m. Bolts and gear.
P3: Climb the steep slab above the belay ledge. Crux moves are within the first few bolts. Upon reaching a grassy rail, trend left and and straight up an easy slab climbing to another big ledge. Traverse left to the belay. 5.10-. 28m. Bolts.
P4: Climb the wide crack. Inside the crack is dirty, but the outside is clean. 5.7. 30m. Bolts and gear. This pitch can be connected with P5.
P5: Climb the wide crack. Like the previous pitch, inside the crack is dirty but the outside is clean (I know what your thinking…). Upon reaching the top of the crack, traverse right onto a big slopping ledge. 5.6. 33m. Bolts and gear.
P6: Climb wavy slab. 5.4. 30m. Bolts and gear.
P7: Climb the steep dyke on the right side of the waterfall. 5.7. 30m. Bolts. This pitch could be connected with the next, however rope drag might be hell because the protection is not laid out in a straight line on P8.
P8: Climb slab. Gear placements soon off belay. 30m. 5.8. Bolts and gear.
P9: Climb left and around steep block on cruizy terrain. 5.4. 30m. Bolts.
P10: Climb…just climb. 5.7. 30m Bolts.
Rappel the belay anchors until the top of P2. Rappel anchors are situated below and to the climbers left of the belay ledge. If climbing with a single rope, it must be 70 meters long.
On highway 16, between Terrace and Prince Rupert, park at the southerly pull out in front of Polymare fishing bar approximately 67km from the Tempo Gas station situated at Kitsumkalum on the West side of Terrace. Walk east down the north side of the highway to a skid path accessing the old hwy along the train tracks (There is orange spray paint on the tracks marking the location of this access point). Walk back (west) along the tracks a short way to the trailhead situated on the north side of the tracks. Continue on the flagged trail to cross a moderately sketchy bridge and reach the base of the main wall. Traverse left (west) at the walls base on brushed ground past the traversing fixed line (base of Neanderthal) to another longer fixed line. Once atop the fixed line, continue east a short way before crossing a waterfall to the climbs grassy base. There will be rocks laid out on the ground at the start of the route.