Throne Of Kings

This route combines 3 pitches from an existing old route, This Fortress Built By Nature 11d, with 5 new pitches to create a fun, moderate multipitch up the center of Howe Sound Redoubt Wall. The old route was reclaimed by the coastal jungle moss and vines, and previously repelled multiple attempts by savvy coastal jungle veterans to even find the start - let alone climb it. Once uncovered and rediscovered, it facilitated the addition of a modern bolted route.        

Although this entire route is bolted, it is not a sport climb. Combined with the overall adventurous nature of the approach, climb, and descent, it is more analogous to a small alpine climb. The bolting is safe however, there is mandatory climbing above bolts and you will not be able to pull through the cruxes. Like any new route, and especially on longer multipitches, there is always the chance for loose rock and holds that might break. 

Pitch lengths were planned to be 35m or less in order to eliminate rope drag while allowing you to rappel with a single 60m or 70m rope. All belays are on comfortable ledges with bolted anchors and rappel rings. Take your time and enjoy the views out over Howe Sound which are spectacular.  

Follow the approach for Howe Sound Redoubt Wall. The route is located near the center of the wall and climbs to the top.

1. 5.4, 5 bolts, 25m. Follow the highly featured rock past bolts, trending rightward slightly, and up to a small terrace with a 2-bolt anchor. 
2. 5.7, 7 bolts, 35m. Move 3m left to the base of the 2nd pitch. A single belay bolt exists. Step up around left to the face with a small ledge and clip the first bolt. Continue straight up fun featured face climbing to a comfortable ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
3. 5.9, 9 bolts, 35m. Traverse left and up diagonally to where the climbing steepens (do not follow the bolts straight above the belay). Surmount 2 small roofs using awesome jugs. Move slightly left over the 2nd roof then straight up, then right to a comfortable ledge and 2-bolt anchor. 
4. 5.8, 4 bolts, 15m. A short pitch heads straight up from the belay. The wall steepens, becoming a bit cryptic before slabbing out beneath a steep section. Traverse left below this steep section (do not go straight up) and up to a small stance in a corner with a 2-bolt anchor.  
5. 5.8, 9 bolts, 32m. Head straight up on the rounded arete above. Clip a bolt out right then move around, onto the steep, exposed face. Climb straight up on fantastic big face holds. It slabs out a bit before the steep final 2 bolts ending on a great ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. 
6. 5.10b, 9 bolts. 30m. Crux. Climb straight up past 2 bolts using face holds and a key crimp. Make a few tricky moves left toward a crack then up the crack to below a large roof system. Traverse rightward under the roof curving up the right side then back over left to an excellent ledge and 2-bolt anchor. 
7. 5.7, 7 bolts, 25m. Continue straight up from the belay, snaking leftward, then right, and back left to another fantastic belay and 2-bolt anchor.
8. 5.7, 5 bolts, 35m. Surmount a small rock step to an easy slab section that steepens with easy, fun climbing to large rock steps and ledges and the final mini headwall. Pull a steep 5.7 move and step up to a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Finished!

Bolts, 10 quickdraws, bolted anchors, 60m or 70m rope.

You have the option to rappel the route using a 60m or 70m rope, or hike down the backside trail (4th class). 

Rappel

Rappel from the last bolted anchor using a 60m rope down the route. A 70m rope will allow you to skip a station.

Hike (30mins) 4th class terrain

From the last anchor, traverse off climbers right into the trees. Work your way up 3rd class steps leftward above into the forest following flagging. The trail traverses climbers right (southward) across the top of the wall through the forest before eventually descending steeply back down around skiers right to the base.

The descent trail joins the approach trail close to the base of the route allowing you to leave extra gear at the base and easily retrieve it after.

The descent is flagged and has 5 fixed ropes to aid through steeper sections and short rock steps. Take caution, there are 4th class sections that require alpine savvy. This descent is double black diamond.