Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), Grade III
FA: Sean Allen and Peter Darragh August 2021
Page Views: 143 total · 14/month
Shared By: Peter Darragh on Jul 22, 2022 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Variation of the Northwest Buttress first climbed by Eric Hardee and Dan Coffey in 1983.

Set BC at the large boulders directly northwest of the summit just south of Home Creek. Go up scree field to the obvious ramp and follow it around climbers right of the prominent dihedral to a steep class 3/4 gully. Get established in the base of the crack system and follow it up rotten loose rock for 3 pitches to a cave below a roof. (The Northwest Buttress route turns climbers left onto the obvious ledge along the green lichen covered face after the first pitch) Crux of the climb seemed to be building an anchor and making the epic exposed move out of the cave by under clinging the roof and traversing right about 10'-15' to the ramp leading onto the slab above. After that follow a few pitches of enjoyable class 4-low fifth to the false summit south-west, rejoin the NW Buttress route for the final beautiful low angle pitch to the summit proper.

 It is worth noting, on average there was only suitable placement for pro every 20'-100' 

Descend the north side following exposed ridge scrambles to another loose sandy ledge system to the top of Avalanche Canyon, up and over the saddle into the Cirque below warrior and down talus back to basecamp. 12.5 hours round trip with few breaks. Crampons and ice axe were helpful descending the glacier at the top of the Cirque. Pro is very bad and runout on the climb, and all the rock is typical Olympic unstable and loose. There are nice "pockets" to belay from that make dodging rockfall easier. It's an epic route that has the benefit of taking your favorite hold home with you.

Route named in memory of the lead first ascender and all-around amazing human and mountaineer Sean Allen. 


Hike to Home Lake from Upper Dungeness trailhead, you will see the face from below.


Standard alpine rack to 4" multiples in .3-.75 are helpful