Advance Directive (AKA Persistent Vegetative State)
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Josh Janes & Adam Macaluso|
|Page Views:||302 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jul 22, 2022|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
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Advance Directive (AKA Persistent Vegetative State) offers excellent and action-packed climbing. Notably, along with the East Side's Zealot and the neighboring classic, Masquerade, it is one of only three all-gear-protected 5.12's in the Gorge, making it a particularly appealing objective.
However, don't expect a walk in the park! The climbing is demanding and particularly so without chalk, if spring runoff deposits a fresh layer of silt, or if Mother Nature moves to reclaim her territory. As the full name might imply, some gardening was required to "unearth" this gem, but it is currently in great shape and deserving of traffic to keep it that way.
Begin atop a high, sloping rock shelf 20' right of the striking Masquerade/Charlie Don't Surf column. The route starts at a thin crack in black and white rock (a few hand jam pods 15' up are a good landmark) where a committing opening sequence quickly gives way to better holds and more obvious gear. From there it is game on all the way to the anchor.
Begin atop a high, sloping rock shelf 20' right of the striking Masquerade/Charlie Don't Surf column. The route starts at a thin crack in black and white rock (a few hand jam pods 15' up are a good landmark).
2x 0.2 Camalots, Green C3’s, or equivalent.
4-5x 0.3 Camalots, Red C3’s, or equivalent.
1x 0.4 & 0.5 Camalots or equivalent.
A #1 and/or a #2 Camalot for the hand jam pods.
A light set of assorted brass & offsets.
Some placements can be a little tricky, but those spots are always interspersed amongst bomber, straightforward pro. As long as you're not reckless a ground-up attempt is perfectly reasonable.