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Routes in The Grasshopper Wall
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Blue Light Special S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bro Job S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dances With Cows S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Escape From the Pod S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Esplanada S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hop Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kielbasa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Little Smokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pu Pu Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slim Jim S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Super Mama (Direct) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alli Rainey |
| Page Views: | 395 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | X C on Jul 19, 2022 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
The black streak that starts just right of Esplanada below the large shark's mouth pocket. Pass a low crux, cruise for a few bolts, then hang on for a final crux following a pretty active rest. A nice slab leads you to the anchor. Great rock and moves, as fun as anything else on the wall.
The path of least resistance shares some holds with Esplanada, so it's best to try it when that route is open. You can definitely climb straight up the bolt line, but it's a good bit harder that way. (Cool moves and holds though!)
I listed this at 13 a/b which feels accurate relative to the rest of the wall. For me, it felt equally difficult to Blue Light Special, definitely harder than Dances with Cows, and a bit easier than Super Mama.
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