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East Face Sneak

5.7 R, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 0 from 1 vote
FA: Brian Coventry, William Jensen, 2022
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Box
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Raptor Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

While scoping out Box Cutter on rappel, we noticed that this route would probably go. It goes indeed, but I'm not sure why anyone would repeat this unless they're looking to climb a 5.7 protected on marginal ballnuts. This route can be climbed safely, but it is far scarier/trickier than Box Cutter.

P1. 5.7 R. Start on the ground below The Box's headwall, and continue up the splitter through the broken plates to the lower right corner of the headwall. Start onto the ramp to avoid the roof, and spot a horn flake up and left. From the horn, head right up the ramp pulling a marginally protected 5.7 move to gain a good 0.2 crack (crux). Continue up the ramp passing a micro-tree eventually leaving left to climb over the large block. From here, head up relatively normal terrain to the big tree.

P2. Low 5th Class. Head to the top of the rock.

This route avoids the potential rope-cutting fall of Box Cutter but is far worse protected through the crux with basically no redeeming climbing. Box Cutter is both better and safer.

Protection

A standard rack to 0.1, double RPs, 2-3 blue ballnuts, and a red ballnut.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A topo of the east face of The Box from Red Devil.
[Hide Photo] A topo of the east face of The Box from Red Devil.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Coventry
  5.7 R
[Hide Comment] In hindsight, borrowing the first cluster of gear you get as you head left on Box Cutter with a triple-length sling would make the crux less sketchy. At least this way if both your crux piece and the one in the broken rock blow, you'll still have something holding you up at about the right height. Jul 12, 2022