Historical Friction

A fun, long, and challenging slab route with two distinct halves. The bottom half starts up a steep, right-trending seam toward a tree - the crux - then veers left up open slab to a major rail, the first positive holds you’ll encounter. Above this, the upper half is fun patina, starting at a low-angle, gradually steepening to a thoughtful final move onto the large ledge at top.

The easier top half is better quality rock than the heady slab of the lower half, which requires sketchy smears on crunchy rock. I'd use the old cliche “it will clean up with more use” but that probably doesn't apply here. No route at the Pins is heavily travelled and, 20+ years after it was established, this route is probably as gritty as the FA. Nevertheless, this is a fun and challenging 5.10 that should see more traffic. And maybe an active cleaning.

This line and Frantic Friction are somewhat isolated on Terrapin’s east face. Franklin's Tower is quite a ways around the corner to the left and the big face with Sandy Line etc. is about 30 yds to the right.

9 bolts. Metolius Rap Hangers. This pitch is a full 35 m so need 70 m rope. Shares anchor and top couple of bolts with Frantic Friction.