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Shaved In The Shape Of A Heart
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Lower Decadent - Asian Wall
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Box Lunch T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Just for Funzies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Just Hold Still T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Passion for a Thrashin' T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Red Headed Steppe Child T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Self Abuse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shaved In The Shape Of A Heart T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sportin' A Woody T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steppes of Central Asia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trip to Iraq T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Tom McCloud, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 201 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Shelkey on Jun 30, 2022 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Start in the chimney immediately right of Self Abuse and continue up crack to top of Asian Wall. Ends by going right of roof at top. Route does NOT have chain anchors, despite what the 2020 guidebook suggests. Crux is after chimney, with extremely limited protection for first placement (RP's / brassies). Crack protects reasonably well for the rest of the route. This route has some fun, interesting moves, but is also has a considerable amount of bird droppings in certain areas that, along with the challenging protection at the start, detract from the quality of the route.
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