All Locations > California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Heffalump

Steve's Folly

Name: Steve's Folly
Rating: 2.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

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Steve's Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Jack Davis and Jim Broadhurst, November 1957
Page Views:	254 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Elaine Gilstrom on Jun 20, 2022
Admins:	andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.

Description

Start in the obvious tunnel/chimney formed by a large chockstone just off the High Peaks trail. Ascend the very mossy chimney until you can push onto the ramp on the climbers left. Climb the equally mossy ramp until you get to a nice ledge with a nice shiny new bolt, then traverse back out around the arete and belay at the large oak tree. This traverse is the crux of the first pitch and when I lead this all of the critical foot holds were covered in moss.

Pitch 2 heads up either side of the giant chockstone to the left. You can choose to either climb the corner protected by 3 bolts or you can climb the crack to the right protected by cams. This is by far the crux of the route and felt significantly harder than 5.7 to me, but I will be keeping to the guidebook's rating of the climb. After pulling the crux, follow the ramp to a large terrace and ascend the chimney to the top. Alternatively, finish on Erik's Folly (5.9, the wide crack above the terrace)

Walk off via the Discovery Wall access trail. There is also a quick link installed on the first bolt of the second pitch, enabling easy retreat from the top of the first pitch.