Fresh Outta Jitters

Climb up the chossy left facing corner to the roof. Drop the most bomber nut in existence just above the lip. This is one of the best nuts I've ever seen... One of those deals where the nut and half the wire just disappear! Before you move, use a black alien or similar in the small crack to the left and clip it short to keep your rope out of the main crack! Trust me, the rope getting stuck there while you're climbing the crux is a show stopper. Pull hard to get established above the roof then load up the crack with micro cams and tiny nuts. Make a couple of thin moves up to the bulge (crux), place a couple more small cams that are questionable. Traverse left and up to a mail slot undercling. Work up into the open book then straight up to top out.

This section of cliff is about 100 feet left of the other routes at Serac Wall (toward Keene Valley). Find the route 30 feet from the stream below a large roof that is 30 feet up. Start in the left facing corner below the roof.

standard single rack to #3 (optional #4 is available below the roof as well) plus micro cams, small nuts/brass. fixed anchor.