PRINT: Rock Climb October, City of Rocks

October

5.8, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Breadloaves > Super Hits - Bloody F…

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Stem and jam up the wide chimney and navigate the roof encounter. Choose your path up the 3 cracks above the roof. Gear anchor at the top. Great climb if you like varied movement.

Descend by rapping Double Vision or walking off as for Intruding Dike.

Location

The chimney to the right of Double Vision. Left of Bloody Fingers.

Protection

Standard rack, #4 may be helpful at the top

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt was happy to realize that the crack opposite the main wall allowed for good pro before negotiating the roof.

Ira approaching the wide finish

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Reeves
Orem Ut

I wish so bad that we could put an anchor at the top. Building one where it was not sucking my rope in to the crack and getting stuck at the top was hard. Jun 2, 2024