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Beers With Birgit

5.10a, Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 11 votes
FA: Crystal Austin & Mike Mason & Danny O’Farrell
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Cariboo > Marble Canyon > Marble Canyon Rock > Apron > Far Far Left Wall
Warning Access Issue: Overnight Parking/Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

Note: Although this route is all modern bolts in modern style and very safe, it is not a sport climb. Limestone is known for being loose in places, and although great effort was taken to clean this route extensively, loose rock may still be present.

P1: 5.8 Climb easy slab and groove. Technical step left to another groove to good belay ledge. 15m

P2: 5.6 Step left and climb up over easy terrain to nice grey slab that trends gently right until you step back left to a belay on a comfy belay ledge. 30m

P3: 5.7 Start left of the belay and follow easy ramp that trends right past well space bolts. Once the angle steepens step back left over a couple tricky steps to the belay situated at the base of a left facing corner. 30m

P4: 5.8 Climb up a corner and pinnacle past a bolt(optional 2”-3” piece of gear between 1st and 2nd bolt- not necessary, but a tad runout). Step over to the left wall and continue upwards past overlaps and corners. Past a defined crux at a left hand corner and a small roof, cut hard left to avoid friable rock and continue to anchor on small grassy ledge. 28m

P5: 5.9  From the anchor climb easy left hand corner that trends leftward.  At a flat no hands rest, head straight up to a tricky transition and defined crux to a groove that deposits you on a treed ledge and belay. 28m

P6: 5.6 Climb fun featured rock to a broken corner. Small overlap to surmount(crux) that gives way to generous holds and good feet. Scramble up to an anchor on vertical wall on the right. 28m

P7: 10a  A spectacular end that saves the best for last! Climb low angle groove left of the anchor until you have to step right and venture up into steeper terrain. The intimidating verticality is undercut by perfectly formed holds that are camouflaged but once you find them, they are amazing!  A short lived crux leads to sharp rock on low angle slab that leads to comfortable belay scoop on the right.  23m

Descent:  Rap the route with a 60m rope.

Location

Take the obvious trail that leads towards the lower Apron. Head left when the trail splits left and right. Continue along the base of the cliff for approximately 300m past a short cliff with bolts and past Sneaky Pete and descend a gravel slope. The climb is directly at the bottom of this slope.

Currently there is a rock at the base with 5.9 painted on it.  This text will be removed once that has been amended 

Protection

8 draws, 2 runners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Katarina Kuba enjoying fun climbing on good rock P4
[Hide Photo] Katarina Kuba enjoying fun climbing on good rock P4
Crystal regretting agreeing to new routing in February 
<br>
- Nearing the top of Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Crystal regretting agreeing to new routing in February - Nearing the top of Pitch 1.
Crystal topping out the 6th Pitch on a much sunnier day.
[Hide Photo] Crystal topping out the 6th Pitch on a much sunnier day.
Location of Beers With Birgit
[Hide Photo] Location of Beers With Birgit

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Danny O'Farrell
Lillooet, BC
 
[Hide Comment] Insta Classic! Jun 13, 2022