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Beers With Birgit
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 11
votes
Routes in Far Far Left Wall
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Beers With Birgit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clandestine Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Classified S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Fridge Wrestling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lucid Dream S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sneaky Pete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Marmot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sugar Marmot Var. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 50.84911, -121.70679 |
| FA: | Crystal Austin & Mike Mason & Danny O’Farrell |
| Page Views: | 1,838 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Mason on May 31, 2022 |
| Admins: | Danny O'Farrell, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Overnight Parking/Camping
Details
The Ministry of Transportation has the power to restrict parking along these roads entirely (including for day use), so please be sure to abide by their rules to ensure our continued access to this area.
Description
Note: Although this route is all modern bolts in modern style and very safe, it is not a sport climb. Limestone is known for being loose in places, and although great effort was taken to clean this route extensively, loose rock may still be present.
P1: 5.8 Climb easy slab and groove. Technical step left to another groove to good belay ledge. 15m
P2: 5.6 Step left and climb up over easy terrain to nice grey slab that trends gently right until you step back left to a belay on a comfy belay ledge. 30m
P3: 5.7 Start left of the belay and follow easy ramp that trends right past well space bolts. Once the angle steepens step back left over a couple tricky steps to the belay situated at the base of a left facing corner. 30m
P4: 5.8 Climb up a corner and pinnacle past a bolt(optional 2”-3” piece of gear between 1st and 2nd bolt- not necessary, but a tad runout). Step over to the left wall and continue upwards past overlaps and corners. Past a defined crux at a left hand corner and a small roof, cut hard left to avoid friable rock and continue to anchor on small grassy ledge. 28m
P5: 5.9 From the anchor climb easy left hand corner that trends leftward. At a flat no hands rest, head straight up to a tricky transition and defined crux to a groove that deposits you on a treed ledge and belay. 28m
P6: 5.6 Climb fun featured rock to a broken corner. Small overlap to surmount(crux) that gives way to generous holds and good feet. Scramble up to an anchor on vertical wall on the right. 28m
P7: 10a A spectacular end that saves the best for last! Climb low angle groove left of the anchor until you have to step right and venture up into steeper terrain. The intimidating verticality is undercut by perfectly formed holds that are camouflaged but once you find them, they are amazing! A short lived crux leads to sharp rock on low angle slab that leads to comfortable belay scoop on the right. 23m
Descent: Rap the route with a 60m rope.
Location
Take the obvious trail that leads towards the lower Apron. Head left when the trail splits left and right. Continue along the base of the cliff for approximately 300m past a short cliff with bolts and past Sneaky Pete and descend a gravel slope. The climb is directly at the bottom of this slope.
Currently there is a rock at the base with 5.9 painted on it. This text will be removed once that has been amended
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