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Routes in Comp Rock - Dihedrals
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Dark Tower T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fruity Redneck T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rose Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shut Up & Scrub T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 42.13561, -113.66901 |
| FA: | Fritz Nuffer/Mike Robinson 5/22 |
| Page Views: | 461 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Robinson on May 25, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
Start in the right-facing wide dihedral. Pull an offwidth move down low (crux) then continue through a varying crack with frequent face holds. Be mindful of some hollow flakes on the right. Enter an easy chimney, skip a belay ledge on the left, and belay at a good stance against the corner at 135' using fingers-sized gear.
The second pitch has a move of 5.7, then is mostly fourth-class to the chain anchor at the base of Sancho Rama.
Continue up the sport route and/or rap twice with a 60m to reach the ground.
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