Guaranteed Rugged

Marble Canyon is a limestone big wall area. Due to this geology, loose rock and rock fall should be expected. Climbers need to be aware of this characteristic when sharing routes with other parties, especially when rappelling. Tread lightly.  It is normal for holds to break in the beginning of a new route's lifecycle. Expect loose rock on routes particularly along the edges of routes if you start pawing around looking for better holds. Try to stay within the confines of the bolt line to mitigate your risk of falling when you encounter crumbly rock, and to decrease risk of rockfall to climbers below.

Marble Canyon has a lot of rock debris and scree on ledges that loom over routes. During high winds and heavy rainfall (rain bursts and thunder storms), debris is dislodged and is prone to falling. Water-saturated scree slopes and debris on the large terrace above the Lower Apron routes (and large ledges on all routes) create debris flows over the lower walls. Climbers have been caught on Lower Apron routes during sudden rain bursts and been thankful to have survived after being pummelled by debris torrents and sudden water cascades.

Please also note, these same debris flows can be large and are subject to suddenly closing the highway to traffic when they flow out and block traffic. This is a reality that locals know well. Thankfully, the climate in this region is typically arid and sunny most of the year so rainfall is limited but this does effect the landscapes ability to cope with sudden rain bursts and thunder showers.

Despite being bolted, routes should be treated as alpine climbs, with respect to rock quality, commitment required, and weather events. Rain should be considered a serious threat due to the landscape not having evolved to absorb the water. Runoff leads to landslides, debris flows, and rockfall unlike other climbing areas. ***Rappel off routes at the first signs of grey clouds and rain***  

A fundraiser through GoFundMe called Marble Mega Multipitch (Guaranteed Rugged 10d) can be accessed at https://gofund.me/9f59fcde.

Guaranteed Rugged is guaranteed to be an adventure. Climbing from the base of the Lower Apron to the summit of Main Wall, this route covers 1068m of limestone in 33 pitches, making it the longest bolted climb in North America. The route can be characterized by three distinct sections: the slabby lower apron, the steep exposed headwall, and the final ridge to the summit. 

With the amount of terrain and distance covered, the climbing stays varied and interesting along the entire length. Smooth, grey, compact, slabby pitches are mixed with stucco-like textured face pitches. Edges, pockets, and stucco flowstone - stippled throughout the route - are highly enjoyable to climb. Climbers will be required to move seamlessly though different styles of climbing in order to climb quickly. 

Lower Apron  

The first 19 pitches characterize the lower apron and mid-section of climbing. Lower angle pitches are interspersed with steeper walls. Superb quality, grey limestone is interspersed with orange, friable sections. The majority of the pitches in this section are between 5.6-5.8, with a handful of steeper pitches to surmount as you ascend. 

Steep Headwall

The steep, exposed headwall always looms overhead, growing more intimidating as you climb nearer. At the top of pitch 19, there is a distinct shift to steeper terrain. The exquisite, grey corner of pitch 20 suddenly feels extremely exposed as the elevation becomes pronounced. Multiple crux pitches will test your arms and your mental fortitude. 

Final Ridge

At the top of pitch 25, reprieve is in sight as the angle eases again. Difficulty falls to your legs and your stamina to keep pushing upward. At this point, it is easier and safer to continue to the top versus bailing via rappels. The final 5.9 pitch is one of the finest on route with steep, exposed climbing far above the valley.   

Located in Marble Canyon provincial Park, BC Canada. The Main Wall across from Pavilion Lake is impossible to miss. Climbers mostly camp at Marble Canyon Provincial campground located on Crown Lake. 

Parking

Find Marble Canyon Provincial campground. From the west entrance it is 2.1km further west to the pullout along Hwy 99 where you can park. Camping and campfires are prohibited at the highway pullouts. These activities will compromise access and parking. 

Approach

25mins - easy hiking, minor scramble section

The approach trail is located directly behind a large green highway sign (distances to Lillooet, Pemberton, Whistler, Vancouver). Follow the trail uphill through parkland grasses and trees, twisting and turning here and there. High up on the trail, scramble 3rd class through a distinct red band of rock. From here, angle up rightward to where the trail notably turns right, traversing sidehill to red dirt. Looking up leftward you will see a distinct red wall with an overhanging arch feature. The route starts at the base of the red wall, on the left, after a short scramble up grey boulders.  

Late May - late October

Depends on weather and snowpack. The descent gully holds deep snow until into mid-May. Early season ascents bring microspikes for ice on the trail. Also, temperatures in May can be an inferno on the lower apron section - start extra early. Late season ascents are limited by shorter days and cold temperatures. The top of the wall can be very alpine relative to the t-shirts and shorts weather near the highway. 

1. 5.6, 30m (4 bolts) Grey slab on the left of a steep red wall. Easy climbing on a featured slab with good holds. Bolted belay/rap station on a small stance beside a dead tree.

2. 5.10a, 33m (11 bolts) Climb the grey limestone wall on the right. Steep climbing traverses up rightward along the lip of the overhanging wall. Great exposure. Continue up rightward. Bolted belay/rap station on the smooth slab.

3. 3rd-4th, 25m (no bolts) Scramble up the gully feature heading left along a steep little wall between a bush, wrapping up around right to the base of the next wall. Loose scree - step careful and mind ropes. No belay/rap station.

4. 5.6, 33m (7 bolts) Follow bolts on the wall above. Solid grey stone leads up to a great belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station.

5. 5.6, 37m (8 bolts) Move 6ft right to a small tree then up diagonal left into an alcove above the belay. Follow beautiful grey slab up leftward to a great belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station.

6. 5.5, 35m (5 bolts) Continue climbing up leftward through easier broken slab terrain. Head up to the belay below a steep wall split by a shallow chimney feature. Great belay ledge with bolted belay/rap station.

7. 5.8, 35m (5 bolts) Head straight up the shallow chimney on fun rock to broken 4th class terrain above. Scramble straight up to a tree. Chain belay on tree.

8. 5.7, 32m (7 bolts) Continue straight above with excellent holds. Stucco limestone and protruding black edges make for fun climbing. Arch leftward near the top to a small belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station.

9. 5.9, 33m (9 bolts) Move left off the belay then straight up on excellent, textured grey stone. Climbing eases higher up at a break. Head up to a big belay ledge. Careful for loose scree - mind your rope. Bolted belay/rap station on a small wall. 

10. 5.6, 38m (8 bolts) Easy climbing straight above leads up on good holds to a great belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station.

11. 5.6, 34m (7 bolts) Continue straight up on similar terrain with great holds and easy climbing. Belay on a great ledge. Careful for scree - mind the rope. Bolted belay/rap station.

12. 5.6, 33m (6 bolts) Move the belay 10m right to a single bolt (good ledge). Climb straight up to the adjacent face, then angle up left on the face following big holds to a great belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station.

13. 5.7, 31m (8 bolts) Climb straight up into orange rock. Somewhat friable loose rock but good holds and fun climbing. Take caution. Angle up left near the top to a great belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station. 

14. 5.10b, 28m (8 bolts) Head straight up above the belay, stemming an easy orange groove (rotten rock) to a steep grey wall above. Follow excellent stucco rock with pockets and solution holes up the steep section to a huge belay ledge and possible bivi spot. Bolted belay/rap station. 

15. 5.10b, 32m (7 bolts) Scramble above the belay to scree ledge. Head up an easy v-slot to another big scree ledge. Scramble back to a steep grey wall with a series of 3 bouldery mantles - super fun. Great belay ledge above. Bolted belay/rap station.  

16. 5.7, 33m (7 bolts) Climb the slab on the right upward to a corner then small steep wall. Boulder up the wall to a scree ledge and tree. Straight up slab for a few moves to a 3-bolt left-angled traverse. End on a huge scree terrace. Bolted belay/rap station on a small wall.

17. 3rd, 60m (no bolts) Head straight left from the belay along the small rock wall. Wrap around up right on scree, scrambling straight up toward left-side of a big tree at the base of a steep wall. No belay bolts. Flat rock to flake your rope. 

18. 5.10b, 35m (9 bolts) Go straight up a left-arching crack/layback feature. Fun climbing. Easy traverse 15ft left on shrubby ledge to line of solution pockets and ledges straight up. Boulder up small steep walls to a nice belay ledge above. Bolted belay/rap station (base of slab). 

19. 5.1, 30m (2 bolts) Head up the grey slab on excellent rock toward the headwall. Angle rightward near the top - up a small step to a great belay ledge at the base of a grey corner. Bolted belay/rap station.

20. 5.10b, 33m (11 bolts) The immaculate grey corner above is one of the best pitches. Suddenly the exposure feels real as you climb steeply onto the headwall. Fun jug-hauling in yellowish rock above the corner. Angle right across a rotten orange rock streak, then up to a nice belay ledge hard left. Bolted belay/rap station.

21. 5.10a, 25m (7 bolts) Step back right, then straight up into a slabby corner. Angle hard right near the top of the slab then straight up steep, but loose, yellowish jugs. Angle up and leftward to the alcove belay. Bolted belay/rap station.

22. 5.10d, 30m (9 bolts) Step left then straight up slab to the steep, foreboding wall. A crack feature splits the wall. Powerful pulling on solution pockets and mini tufa lips lead upward. Climbing eases higher, following broken terrain up to a small belay stance on the left. Bolted belay/rap station. 

23. 5.10d, 33m (11 bolts) "Wrap Around Pitch" Climb straight up the slot/crack to fun face, jug hauling on lower angle terrain. Near the top of the triangular face, climb good holds directly on the corner of the west and south faces with insane exposure as you "wrap around" onto the west face. Stay high on slab feet to find an excellent secret handhold through the crux. Angle up left to a hanging stance. Bolted belay/rap station.  

24. 5.10d, 28m (12 bolts) Climb up 2-bolts, then traverse right back toward the insanely exposed south face. Head up a shallow, grey corner feature on the apex of the west and south faces. A cruxy sequence leads around up into the shallow corner. Fun, exposed climbing leads straight above to belay at a small stance. Bolted belay/rap station.

25. 5.9, 12m (3 bolts) Climb up on grey slab. The wall steepens as you enter a finger crack. Traverse left into an orange scree trough above to a good belay stance. Bolted belay/rap station.

26. 5.4, 28m (4 bolts) You are now on the final ridge section. Room to bivi here. Scramble straight up the ridge surmounting a small step to belay beside a dead tree. Bolted belay/rap station.

27. 5.7, 33m (7 bolts) "Edge Of Time" Fun climbing leads up excellent grey flowstone in a very exposed position near the edge of the south face. Near the top, scramble leftward up a scree slope to belay on a small ledge near the "blow hole". The blowhole is a wild natural rock hole dropping all the way down Main Wall.  Bolted belay/rap station.

28. 5.9, 31m (9 bolts) The "Blow Hole pitch" Angle up leftward to the middle of the steep face. Straight up, surmounting a small overlap near the top. Scramble easy broken slab to belay right of small trees. Bolted belay/rap station.

29. 3rd, 50m (no bolts) Scramble up the ridge, wrapping right above a tree to a small belay ledge. Bolted belay/rap station. 

30. 5.6, 33m (6 bolts) Slab climb up rightward on excellent, grey stone to a steep, small step. Climb this, traversing right to a tree, then hard left straight up to a nice alcove belay above. Bolted belay/rap station.

31. 5.3, 33m (6 bolts) Head straight up the ridge on easy, juggy rock to a nice alcove belay. Bolted belay/rap station.

32. 5.3, 33m (4 bolts) Continue straight up the ridge on juggy stone. The angle eases as you reach the base of the final steep pitch. Belay at a great ledge beside a tree. Bolted belay/rap station.

33. 5.9, 25m (8 bolts) The crowning pitch is one of the best. Steep climbing on good rock, interspersed with jugs and incredible exposure along the way, leads to the top. Enjoy the fantastic views (or stars). Bolted belay/rap station.    

12 draws, 2 alpine draws. Bolts with bolted belay/rap anchors. 70m rope allows rappelling at any point.

Rappel at any belay/rap station with a single 70m rope. On pitch 15 you need to come off rappel on a big ledge and step down to the anchor on top of pitch 14. On the 3rd class pitches you will need to carefully down scramble to the rap anchors.

There is no cell service in this area so you will require a satellite communication device to signal for help. As a minimum, on a serious route like this, leave a note on your car dashboard with your objective and leave a plan with someone responsible at home. 

There are several locations along the route that are large enough to sleep 2-4 people if caught out. The following pitches have areas that could suffice: pitch 14, pitch 17, pitch 19, pitch 25.

There is a great bivi spot at the top of the route in the forest. After the descent trail initially ascends, it bends sharp left crossing through a perfect flat bivi site. Within the rocks on the ground is located an orange bag with emergency supplies (emergency blanket, whisky).

6km, descending 967m (3172ft)

From the top of the route, scramble up to the trees and head left on the old climber's descent trail. The trail initially ascends uphill 80m before continuing left, wrapping around the rim of the Great Gully (on the left). The trail traverses in and out of several small ravines along route before beginning a steady descent downhill. Initially, the trail skirts downward along the rocky rim of the Great Gully (massive chasm on your left), veering right into the forest (marked by a cairn) about halfway around. Watch for the right-hand turn into the forest. This leads you down through the forest to the North Gully which will then take you most of the way down to the highway.   

Once in the North Gully, you essentially follow the gully downhill to the dry, grassy, treed slopes above the highway. A reasonably good old trail continues all the way down North Gully out to Hwy 99. You will pass several landmarks in the gully. The first of which is a large talus field - continue straight down across this. Second, you will encounter a beautiful waterfall spraying the right side of the wall. Fill bottles here if you're on empty. Third, you will encounter "Horse Thief" camp (an ancient fire ring and tin cans).

The last obstacle on your guaranteed rugged adventure are the fixed ropes. Carefully hand-line down several fixed ropes, descending two 5th class steps and lots of steep, loose terrain. Be careful of loose rocks and others below you. Once off the fixed ropes, hug the left gully wall and descend into "The Junction" where Dreamweaver gully joins on the left. 

From here, the ever-changing scree trail becomes more trail-like and distinct as you descend onto the dry forested grassland slopes. The trail continues left, traversing dusty grass slopes and descending to Hwy 99. At this point, you are approximately 600m west of your car and will need to turn left (east), walking the highway shoulder for 10mins back to where you parked.