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One Ear In

V1+ R, TR, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: First recorded: Ben VanderStouw, May 2022, Sit start: Sam Altvater Sept. 2022
Maine > h. Bangor Area > Dedham Bouldering > Sunset Hill

Description

Great practice for your offwidth technique. Ignoring the face hold makes the climbing much harder. Climb the crack that gradually goes from baggy fists up to a squeeze chimney. 

Gear anchor 15-20 feet back, bring something to pad the rope if toproping. 

Location

Start up the obvious crack nestled in the small alley formed by the wall and a large boulder in the left-central section of the wall. 

Protection

2-4 pads and good spotters.

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Looking up on One Ear In
[Hide Photo] Looking up on One Ear In
Toprope set up on One Ear In
[Hide Photo] Toprope set up on One Ear In