Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: FKA: Jerry Cagle and Randy Sooter 05/04/2022 (Previewed on top rope solo.)
Page Views: 256 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jerry Cagle on May 4, 2022
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Location Suggest change

Start is below and left of the deep, wide chimney approximately mid-way between Lichen and Leap Frog.

Description Suggest change

Begin by ascending the gneiss staircase below and slightly left of the obvious chimney and immediately right of a short, right-facing corner, up to a mantelshelf. Mantel onto the shelf (DOH!) to gain the deep, outward flaring chimney. Stem the chimney to the small roof/bulge and pull onto the face above. Head for the anchors staying between Leap and Lichen until you reach the large flake (Arkansas Flake) with a bolt on its face. Keep left at the flake and continue to the anchor shared by Lichen and Frog. All gear, no bolts. The first meaningful protection is found at the apex of the chimney, just below the face above the roof/bulge. But, truth be told, it wouldn't prevent a bad fall should you peel making the move up onto the face.

 

Protection Suggest change

Well... I used a #4 Camalot, #2/3 Metolius Ultralight Offset Master Cam, #5 Metolius Master Cam, and a #10 DMM Alloy Offset Stopper YMMV

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