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John Cena Memorial Route

5.10+, Sport, Alpine, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
FA: Tristan Stone, John Imperato, Matt Sewall, Ryan Gormley, April 2022
Nevada > Western Nevada > Santa Rosa Range > Paradise Valley > Cleft

Description

430ft, 5 pitches

Burly route up an obvious and steep line. Difficulty is mainly concentrated within pitches 2/3 and climbing is sustained.


P1 (5.8, 7 bolts, 32m): clip the first bolt of Paiute Pockets and traverse left on the grassy ledge. Head up the pocketed water streak then step left on to the arete. Belay on a ledge on 2 bolts.

P2 (35m, 5.10+, 10 bolts)
4th class for about 40 feet. Stay on top of separated flake until reaching overhung bulge. Clip bolt from a large pocket and start powerful 5.10+ climbing on sidepulls and pinches to gain the bulge. Continue straight up through a large juggy undercling rest into 20 feet of 5.10 face climbing. Finish slightly left to anchors across mossy runnel and belay on large ledge.

P3: (35m, 5.10+, 10 bolts)
Head left up some moss to the first bolt. Scramble to a pillar for a few fun, steep moves. More easy climbing to another pillar left of a small chossy cave. Head up the pillar before traversing right over the cave on small edges. Head right to more low angle terrain and up to the anchor.

P4: (20m, 5.6, 2 bolts)
Climb directly up from belay ledge with long run outs across very easy terrain. One 5.6 move off belay ledge and then hike to the top, optionally clipping a couple bolts along the way. Belay from top and be careful of stray rock fall from rope and climbers.

Pitch #5: Shared with Paiute Pockets. Move 15m to the left into the cleft of rock and scramble up a few final moves to a two-bolt belay. 3rd class, 10m, 2 bolts.

Descent: Equipped for rappel with a 70m rope, but walk off is more logical choice.

Protection

bolts and bolted anchors

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