Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Raven

5.8, Sport, 673 ft (204 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
FA: Justin Lawson and James Garrett, 26 April 2022
International > Africa > Malawi > Mulanje Massif

Description

We hiked up to base of the Chambe Face intent on climbing Passion And Pain, but found it dripping with water. We equipped this instead. Named after the “flocks” of beautiful white dotted neck ravens soaring above. Two 60m ropes need for abseils (P1-P3 can be climbed with a single 60m rope).

Pitch#1: Short easy slabbing on excellent grippy granite to a two bolt belay. 5.5, 25m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up nicely featured steeper rock with fun movement to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m, 6 bolts.

Pitch #3: “The Headwall”, trend a bit right following bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 11 bolts. Climb up 3-4m above the two bolt belay to a huge ledge belay for P4.

Pitch #4:  The rock on this pitch is very coarse and featured so friction works really well up to a two bolt belay; holds wont break. 5.8+ , 60m, 10 bolts.

Pitch #5: Just like P4, this pitch is long but many of the holds could still come off. It definitely requires more cleaning. This pitch joins Passion and Pain at the end. 5.8, 60m, 5 bolts.

Rappel the route or rappel over to P&P and rappel down from there.

Location

3m to the right and uphill of the start of Passion And Pain.

Protection

QDs x 12

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[[Aleksandar Grahovac]] on Belay at P4
[Hide Photo] Aleksandar Grahovac on Belay at P4
Local Likubula hiking guide/Porter now rock climber Witness Stima taking the sharp end on upper pitch of Raven
[Hide Photo] Local Likubula hiking guide/Porter now rock climber Witness Stima taking the sharp end on upper pitch of Raven

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mdl
 
[Hide Comment] This past summer, we added two additional pitches (so a fourth and fifth pitch). These are sparsely bolted at the moment, however, so to be in keeping with the character of the route would need some more bolts! Oct 28, 2022
Ed Nhlane
Lilongwe
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] As of June 2026, all 5 pitches are now well protected. The previously run out sectiom were eaquiped with glue-ins Jun 12, 2026