Mafia Bianca

The classic line on Monticelli. This uber-popular route follows a natural slot up the northwest face for 5 pitches of alternating steep snow / ice and mixed cruxes. Despite being outside a ski resort and only 20-30 minutes from the car, the line is inset and feels very 'alpine'. This route often forms early in the season (November), but is best once snow has had time to consolidate. It can be climbed dry, but the mixed sections will be longer, and the line will have more loose rocks. 

From the base, the canale should be very obvious. If there are other parties, it may be best to wait in the alcove a few meters below the base of the canale. Depending on the snow, there may not be much room at the anchor below the first pitch, and it can be exposed to snow/ice. 

P1: head straight up the obvious gully, through a few easy mixed sections. If you're lucky, you might find some ice here. Bolted belay on climber's left. 25-30m, 65º, M-easy, AI2 (maybe)

P2: continue following the obvious gully. A few moves of M2/M2+ overcome an awkward chimney-dihedral. A few in-situ slings can be found. Bolted belay, climber's left. 40m, M2/2+ 

P3: Continue up the gully. A large boulder is just above the belay, and can be climbed either on climber's left or climber's right. Can be M2 in lean years, or just steep snow. Continue up steep snow until a rocky chimney. There is a bolted belay on climber's right at the base of the rocky chimney but many parties opt to continue climbing. 20m, steep snow

P4: Follow the rocky chimney. There are two variants here: taking the crack on climber's right is slightly shorter and easier (M2), the crack on the climber's left is longer and more challenging (M3/3+). Pitch finishes on a slope overlooking the ski resort. Two belay options: immediately move climber's left to find 2 bolts directly above the chimney, a bit of awkward traversing on snow/mud may be needed. Otherwise, traverse climber's right for a few meters along the slope, hugging the rock on the left to find two bolts. 30m, M3+ or M2. Often combined with P3. 

P5: traverse along the slope into the obvious snow-filled gully, ending in a short mixed section. Either climb the left wall, or stem to overcome the mix section. Head up a few more meters to find two bolt belay on climber's left. Belay may need extension in lean snow years. 40m, M2

P6: Crux pitch. Climb the dihedral a few meters above the belay with a few strenuous moves (M4/4+). Lots of in-situ gear / slings. Once atop the crux, follow the slope up, trending slightly climber's right. Climb over the wood barrier to the ridge. Bolt + slung horn anchor along the ridge. 60m, M4/4+. 

(there may be a bolted anchor on climber's right immediately above the crux, making an 18m pitch, almost everyone just continues to the ridge)

Alternatively, once past the crux, you can move cimber's left and follow the snow / rock towards a tower on the left side of the ridge. 

Descent: The line can be abseiled easily at any point. From the ridge, abseil down the opposite side of the ridge (~50m) to reach a hiking path. Follow it south, towards the direction of the cable car, passing near the WWI ruins. 20-30 minutes back to the cable car. 

A very good topo: francescosalvaterra.com/wp-…

From the cable car, follow the ski run to the base of Monticelli. Either traverse along the snow slope below the wall (can be kinda sketchy depending on the snow), or continue following the ski slope downhill, then regain elevation directly below the climb. 15-30 minutes depending on snow. 

Or, skin/hike up from the parking lot. 1-1.30 hour. 

The start of the climb is obvious, with a large apron leading into an inset gully. This is a very popular route, so there will probably be tracks.