Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: FKA "Chris Brewer, Sept 2021
Page Views: 234 total · 9/month
Shared By: Chris Brewer on Apr 25, 2022
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Follows the left most crack system beside "never again" / "Beach One". The climb starts with broken ledges and face moves and ventures into the clean-ish hand sized crack above.  Good hand jams lead through a steep section as the crack gets wider. There are loose blocks to the climbers right but these can be easily avoided. The crack comes to ledgy bit where climbers can traverse about 10 ft left into a hand and finger crack that continues upwards on easy terrain to the anchors above. This route was chosen as the rock directly above the first hand crack is loose and less desirable.

There are many solid gear placement opportunities despite the broken nature of the crack. No runout required.

This was recently cleaned as of Sept 2021, so it's still a little licheny on the face moves and the occasional loose rock remains.

Location Suggest change

Between "Bradycardia" and "Never Again". Leftmost crack beside "Never Again" 

Protection Suggest change

Trad: Cams from BD C4 0.5 - 3 (single rack / maybe double up on the 2's and 3's.. even a 4 for the wide bit wouldn't hurt). Smaller gear towards the top and a couple decent nut placements.

Two bolts with rings at the anchor.

Photos

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