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Contamine-Mazeaud
AI3 Steep Snow
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Upper Vallée Blanche Basin
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Arête à Laurence T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Contamine Grisolle AI2 M2 Easy Snow |
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Contamine-Mazeaud T AI3 Steep Snow |
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Cosmiques Arête T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2 M4 Mod. Snow |
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Goulotte Chéré AI4 M3 |
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Mont Blanc du Tacul Regular Route Mod. Snow |
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Pointe Lachenal Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M1 Mod. Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1150 ft (348 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Andre Contamine an Pierre Mazeaud, July 21, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 338 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Bogdan Petre on Apr 15, 2022 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre |
Description
The central line up the Triangle du Tacul. Takes the icy choke point in the middle of the face and climbs up to the headwall, vearing slightly right to gain a snow ramp that intersects with the top of the Chere. From here the route continues to the summit of the tacul following the right side of the triangle. Most parties are likely to stop at the intersection with the Chere and rappel to avoid descending through the seracs of the Tacul normal route.
Ice and snow, mostly in the 50-60* range. AD+/D- alpine grade (Damilano calls it D, UKC calls it "high AD+", camptocamp calls it AD+). 2-3.5 hours in good conditions.
Be careful if descending the Chere not to knock rocks onto the parties below. The intersection with the Chere hosts many loose stones, and they will funnel into the couloir if dislodged. Take note of any you might knock down when pulling your ropes BEFORE you descend and address the hazard for your sake and those of the people below. Things improve after the first rappel.
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