Disappointment Peak Cleaver/Gerdine Ridge Direct

Follow the south side route which (breaks out from White Pass on the PCT). Around 8,000 - 8,500 ft., instead of crossing over onto the Suiattle Glacier and then the Cool Glacier (which is what the standard route does), continue following the ridge directly through the top of disappointment peak, and then to the summit. 

The climbing is mostly 3rd/4th class between 8,500 ft. and 9,700 ft (Disappointment Peak), but I found a few 5th class moves mixed in towards the end. With better route finding you could probably avoid 5th class moves entirely. The rock is quite loose and unstable - climb carefully and make sure not to drop any rocks on the climbers below you on the glacier. This ridge is also continuously shedding rock so don't stray too far from the ridge crest. 

The main draw of this route is the fact that it avoids glacier travel (therefore crevasse hazard) entirely, but in exchange you get sketchy and loose 3rd/4th class climbing. 

The south-facing ridge on Glacier Peak, following it directly up Disappointment Peak instead of traversing into Suiattle/Cool Glaciers (which the standard South Side route does). 3rd/4th class begins from approximately 8,500ft. upwards. 

don't fall