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Tiger Pause

5.9+ PG13, Trad, TR, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
FA: Mike Pajunas, Joe Parsley, October 1985
Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte > Bill's Buttress

Description

A really wonderful crack from bottom to top!

Start by running 50 feet up an incredibly dirty ramp, without many pro options, to the base of the climb. Work the face with nice ledges, or utilize finger locks, until you get to the middle ledge. From here on up, the thin face edges disappear, forcing you to work the finger cracks. The crack widen to hands then widens to fists. Finish with a burly roof mantle to the top

Originally rated at 5.9 but the last moves might feel a bit stiffer

Location

From the top, get to Bill's buttress, the walk left along the cliffside. After the leftmost upper boulder, look down for the anchors. Backup bolt is available.

To get to the bottom, get to Bill's buttress and then scramble down the chute on the right to the ground. Look for the #4 on the tree up against a steep cliff face

Protection

Bolted anchor with chains and mussy hooks. Also a backup bolt with no critical need for a tree extension to get there. Feel free to TR on the hooks, they will be replaced as needed. Pro to 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tiger Pause runs the obvious crack from bottom to top
[Hide Photo] Tiger Pause runs the obvious crack from bottom to top
Tiger Pause anchors are just below the ledge. There is a backup bolt.
[Hide Photo] Tiger Pause anchors are just below the ledge. There is a backup bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Fletch PDX
Portland, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated to 1/2" inch stainless steel thanks to the ASCA Apr 8, 2022
Fletch PDX
Portland, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Lower 40 foot dirt ramp had been heavily cleaned as of April 7th, 2022. Please clean annually Apr 8, 2022
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
  5.10b/c PG13
[Hide Comment] I climbed this tonight as a toprope solo. I just rapped straight down to a tree with a small platform. Therefore, there is no reason to do the bottom dirty section of the route. Even starting at the tree, there is plenty of incredible climbing. Just watch for poison oak at the top while setting up the anchor! This is one of the best climbs at Rocky Butte if you're into crack climbing. It has it all with hands, finger locks, fists, knee-bar, wild underclings, stemming, smearing, and some laybacking. I don't think I'd want to lead it because it is still pretty dirty inside the cracks. Hard to rate crack climbs but this is definitely harder than 5.9, in my opinion. I think the finish is closer to 5.10b/c. Jul 3, 2022