Derailed

The operation unfolds smoothly at the start. Nearly half the route can be won by an easy 80-foot climb up the apron. Opposition stiffens considerably once the pillar is reached, however; the next 80 feet, though featured, is sustained vertical. Locate the belay strategically as your position may be spontaneously shelled by rocks and ice off the surrounding walls and gullies as well as the climb itself.

Try to find a rest before the roof, whose surprising resistance may stall your advance and prompt you to claim that you only intended to climb the pillar all along. If you've anything left in the tank, easier ground awaits above the overhang, but anchor before the ice runs out lest you find the end of your rope attempting to achieve total victory by reaching the trees.

70m ropes are required to keep the belay safe, or you can do it in two pitches with an intermediate stance on the ledge at 120 feet, which may be wet. Prepare to get soaked in any case.

From the East Fork junction, hike 1.6 miles to the summer trailhead. Continue south on the trail for 3/4 miles to a large meadow, where the climb should be visible to the southeast, just to the right of a prominent chute. Leave the trail here, cross the creek, and hike due SW to intersect the major ditch that drains the climb. Hike up or along the drainage to reach the tight alcove 600 feet above the creek.

Total distance from the winter parking is 7 miles.

WARNING: this climb is in an avalanche path. We observed the aftermath of a slide that ran all the way down to the creek and threw mature aspens around like toothpicks.

2 70m ropes, 10+ screws, v-thread kit, snowshoes

Scott Adamson and Justin Stirrett first climbed this route and called it "Derailed." The exact date is unknown.