Avg: 4 from 4
votes
A well regarded alpine ice route with easy access. Not as popular as the Chere, but you still need to worry about potentially racing other parties to the base.
Cross the bergschrund and simul for ~1000' up 50* snow with a couple of mixed steps. After about 800' you encounter a fork. Right is Modica Noury (AI5+, M5, TD). Left is Gabarrou Albinoni (AI4+, M4, TD-). Pitched out climbing begins about 200' after the fork. Protection will mostly be on ice screws since the rock doesn't lend itself to rock gear. The crux last pitch does take some rock gear though, which is nice because the ice throughout can be thin, but especially in the last pitch. Most parties belay after the top ice pitch, but it's also possible to top out the couloir via moderate mixed terrain up and left after the last ice pitch.
Descend by rappelling or walk off down the north face of the Tacul (Trois Monts route). If Rappelling there are nice bolt and chain anchors after the first rappel until just short of the bergschrund. The first rappel is off somewhat questionable tat, and the last rappel (over the bergschrund) lacks chains. We found a stopper and piton rappel of dubious quality. You may want to be equipped to prepare your own rappel anchors at points, but for the most part can expect the rappels to be hassle free.
camptocamp quotes 1.5h for approach, 4-6h for the ascent and 2.5h for the descent. 4-6h seems aggressive (we managed in ~6 and thought we were moving quickly and efficiently), but the rest was on point.
East face of the Tacul, near the junction with the south face of Point Lachenal. Follows a gully system right of the Gervasutti and Jaeger Couloirs. Gabarrou Albinoni is the left variation of this gully. Right variation is Modica Noury.
2x 60m ropes (to make the rappels), screws, a small selection of rock gear (route doesn't take much). Route lends itself to ski approaches and climbing in lightweight (1-2 buckle) AT boots.
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Eugene, OR
Aside note: I got severe frostbite on this thing in cold but clear conditions last January, from which I'm still recovering over 4 months later. Just because it's easily accessible and relatively easy to retreat from doesn't mean it's not a proper alpine climb with most of the associated hazards, which is a good thing to keep in mind in Chamonix. I let myself get lulled into a very unjustified sense of security by how easy this thing is to get to and paid a heavy price. May 10, 2022
West Lebanon, NH
Double boots or well insulated ski boots should be standard for winter climbing in the Alps. Single boots only work on rare exceptional days and most AT boots that climb well come with skimpy liners targeted at aerobic use like amateur skimo racing or something. These should be upgraded with aftermarket liners like the intuition pro tour.
This may be a cragging route in style but you are not at the crag. May 10, 2022
Eugene, OR