Gabarrou-Albinoni
AI4 M4 Steep Snow PG13
Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1650 ft (500 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jean-Pierre Albinoni and Patrick Gabarrou, July 1974 |
Page Views: | 589 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Bogdan Petre on Mar 21, 2022 |
Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
A well regarded alpine ice route with easy access. Not as popular as the Chere, but you still need to worry about potentially racing other parties to the base.
Cross the bergschrund and simul for ~1000' up 50* snow with a couple of mixed steps. After about 800' you encounter a fork. Right is Modica Noury (AI5+, M5, TD). Left is Gabarrou Albinoni (AI4+, M4, TD-). Pitched out climbing begins about 200' after the fork. Protection will mostly be on ice screws since the rock doesn't lend itself to rock gear. The crux last pitch does take some rock gear though, which is nice because the ice throughout can be thin, but especially in the last pitch. Most parties belay after the top ice pitch, but it's also possible to top out the couloir via moderate mixed terrain up and left after the last ice pitch.
Descend by rappelling or walk off down the north face of the Tacul (Trois Monts route). If Rappelling there are nice bolt and chain anchors after the first rappel until just short of the bergschrund. The first rappel is off somewhat questionable tat, and the last rappel (over the bergschrund) lacks chains. We found a stopper and piton rappel of dubious quality. You may want to be equipped to prepare your own rappel anchors at points, but for the most part can expect the rappels to be hassle free.
camptocamp quotes 1.5h for approach, 4-6h for the ascent and 2.5h for the descent. 4-6h seems aggressive (we managed in ~6 and thought we were moving quickly and efficiently), but the rest was on point.
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