Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Antelope Boy

5.12-, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Forest Altherr and Josh Smith December 2021
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff

Description

A long and somewhat wandery line tackling the prominent face to the right of Capulin Classic. The first pitch makes for a nice 5.11 or an alternative start to Pinky Mice.

Pitch 1: Starts near Stairway to Heaven but follows a left arching hand crack. Pull past a solid block onto a slab that leads up past the Capulin Classic ledge. A higher set of anchors just right of Pinky Mice ends this pitch (5.11-).

Pitch 2: Climb up the left side of the pillar to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. Then execute some punchy moves past a bolt and hand traverse left across a ledge. From the ledge head up and right to gain an offset seam protected by small cams and bolts. Finish the headwall on a nice crack in softer rock to the anchors (5.12-).

Location

Below and to the climber's right of the OW leading to the Capulin Classic ledge. This route starts near Stairway to Heaven but follows a left arching hand crack past a flake jammed into the crack.

Protection

Standard BD double rack from 0.2 to #3 with extra 0.5 - 0.75 Camelots. Additionally, a couple micro cams or micro nuts might be nice to have for protecting the easy slab atop the first pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The upper half of Antelope Boy follows the left crack system
[Hide Photo] The upper half of Antelope Boy follows the left crack system
George above the choss tower
[Hide Photo] George above the choss tower