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Spontaneous Human Combustion
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in The Moondial
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Airsick (NW Ridge Right, open project) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Black Snow S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ceasefire S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dependent Origination S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Direct roof extension (open project) S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Edgelord (open project) S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Lathe of Heaven, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Left Hand of Darkness, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Look to Windward (Open project) S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Moondogs S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Neon Gray S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Never Forever S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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not a lot, just forever S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Orbital Arete (NW Ridge) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pale Fire S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Pale King (open project), The S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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SE Ridge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spontaneous Human Combustion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Surface Detail S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Syzygy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | JD Merritt 04/2022 |
| Page Views: | 1,502 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | JD Merritt on Mar 14, 2022 |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate.
Details
Private Logging Land, Burn Area: don't block the gate, don't interfere with salvage logging. Read the signs.
Logging land on approach road, parts of the crag are on public, BLM land.
Private land info on the sign at the gate (photo added).
No access in high fire danger.
Significant hazards from falling trees, erosion, etc.
Logging land on approach road, parts of the crag are on public, BLM land.
Private land info on the sign at the gate (photo added).
No access in high fire danger.
Significant hazards from falling trees, erosion, etc.
Description
Steep and dynamic with really nice holds low, technical up high.
First section comes down to three huge moves and some high tension setup between each. The hardest of these can succumb to static beta, heel hooks and heinous tension, or a dyno. Much easier beta has emerged since the FA. A cruisy section with not quite any real rest leads into a thinly featured, doubly overhanging open book left of the blank black prow. Palm hard. Insecure but very satisfying to puzzle through. Get pumped from head to toe, somehow.
Make sure your warmup covers all the bases: fingers, hips, and shoulders. Time will tell if it's actually this hard, but it should offer a well-rounded challenge.
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