Type: Sport, 850 ft (258 m), 10 pitches
FA: Jacob Cook, Drew Marshall, Mar 2022
Page Views: 810 total · 38/month
Shared By: Drew Marshall on Mar 14, 2022
Admins: Rudy Peckham, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route

3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Wildly steep climbing on tufas, cracks and pockets, the wall overhangs continuously from pitch 3 to the top!

Full shade after 10:30am

p1 10a, 6 bolts
Easy face to a ledge. Walk left to the anchor.

p2 11c, 12 bolts
Stem, jam and face climb a corner to a ledge. Walk left to an anchor.

p3 "Three Streaks" 12d, 13 bolts
Step off the ledge and immediately enter a burly crux through a roof.
Wander up a thin slab across a streaked wall, then pull three more distinct cruxes through the face above.

p4 12c, 9 bolts
Climb a shallow corner to a left-rising traverse.
Tricky face climbing takes you to the base of a tufa

p5 13b, 8 bolts
Do some totally normal rock climbing up an obscenely overhanging tufa.
Get a good rest before launching right through the steep pumpy crux!

p6 "Two Hundred Bats" 11b, 3 bolts
Time to put those Yosemite skills to the test.

p7 12c, 12 bolts
Layback up the corner and navigate around an overhang.
A difficult move leads to another crack out left. Climb this, then traverse rightward beneath a large pillar.

p8 "Christina Nagualera" 12d, 11 bolts
An easy crack flares out into a reachy crux.
Traverse leftward on pockets and tufa pinches.
Don't blow it right at the end...

p9 13a, 12 bolts
Follow the corner and roof system to a hard move below the roof.
Save some gas for the outrageously steep jugs above!

p10 12b, 12 bolts
Cut right to the arete, then follow this to the cumbre!
Keep an eye out for an optional midway anchor out left.


Rappel the route with one 70m rope, using a midway anchor on p10 and an alternate anchor left of p7.

Or, walk 750m climber's right along the top to find a shorter and less steep rappel line.

Location Suggest change

The top of the route is at roughly: 26.157159, -100.777568

El Gavilan tops out about 50m climbers' right

From the base, begin 50m right of a distinctive orange pillar, behind a boulder.

Protection Suggest change

13 quickdraws, 70m rope