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Surfing For Stone

5.11a, Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 8 votes
FA: Rod Hancock, Cody Hood - Jan '07
International > S America > Chile > 14. Los Lagos (… > Valle Cochamó > Anfiteatro > Paciencia

Description

*Pitch 1 and 2 are the same as Path of Righteousness

P1-35m, 5.10+: Belay climbers left to help with rope drag. Climb wet slabs into chimney. If chimney is wet, just pull on gear if you have to; the climbing above is well worth it. Place gear in edge of crack in chimney to prevent rope from getting stuck. Exit chimney and continue up shallow corner/crack feature. Belay at handcrack left of random bolt on face. Probably easiest to ignore bolt. Uncomfortable belay.

P2-25m, 5.11-: Continue climbing corner (5.10 PG-13) until you can step right out on face to clip a bolt. Make a crux move to arrive at a bolted anchor. 

*Possible to link pitch 1&2 into a 60m pitch with careful rope management. Belayer should be prepared to simul.

P3-30m, 5.10+: Climb the beautiful left leaning crack in front of you. 10- hands leads to 10+ fingers. Slab move to the right at the top of crack leads to bolted anchor.

P4-45m, 5.11-: Climb flakes above you. Thin face move connecting flakes. Slab move to the right at the top of flakes leads to bolted anchor.

P5-35m, 5.9: OW splitter. 3 bolts. A optional #5 will calm the nerves of the budding OW climber. A strong party could get by with one #4 but be prepared to bump the 4 awhile/run it out.

Open project: There is one more pitch above that has been left an open project. It now connects with P6 of iron Skirt. Has not been freed to my knowledge and no idea what grade it would be.

Descent: Rappel the route 

Location

About 50 meters right of Al Lado del Corazon. Easy to spot above a marsh with wet slabs. 

Protection

Double rack .3-#4, single .2, RPs, alpines, 2x60m ropes, [optional #5 for OW and set of micro cams]

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

party of three on pitch 3 or 4 of surfin, taken from Onomatopoeia
[Hide Photo] party of three on pitch 3 or 4 of surfin, taken from Onomatopoeia
Start of pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Start of pitch 1
Pitch 4
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4
Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3
Red=SFS, Green=POR
[Hide Photo] Red=SFS, Green=POR
Slightly different beta from original topo
[Hide Photo] Slightly different beta from original topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Thomas Gilmore
Where the climate suits my…
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This route and it's neighbor are solid 3 star routes. It is a great idea to link both climbs by climbing POR first and then the last 3 pitches of SFS. Both routes are a bit more heady and a step up in difficulty from Onomatopoeia and Sweet and Bitter Fruit. The only detracting factor is just the first 20m of climbing (especially if wet). These routes were put up in '07 and some of the vegetation has grown back. If someone gave them a good ice axe cleaning (mainly the shared first pitch and the last pitch of POR), they would become solid 4 star routes. Regardless, the climbing is classic and a great option for lower commitment, high quality, splitter cracks in Anfi. Rappel anchors were updated in Feb '22 to all bomber stainless courtesy ASCA. Mar 4, 2022