Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 170 total · 11/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Feb 24, 2022
Admins: Brad Fauteux, Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great aesthetic arete with some great moves and a slight height factor.

Stand start with both hands matched on a good jug. Move up to a slopey horizontal ledge, then make a big move up to a horizontal seam in the corner. From here, obtain a cool iron-band ear and move up right hand to a hidden jug.

Continue up the arete, using a sloping horizontal ledge with an iron-band running perpendicular through it. Gain some higher feet then move up to the sloping arete and figure out a way to smack for the improving holds at the lip of the boulder.

The crux is near the top, matching the arete and gaining the lip.

The mantle is high off the deck and not exactly straight forward or particularly easy either.

This problem is in the corner, but goes dab-free and climbs well.

Location

This fun problem is found on the same massive boulder as "Instinct". While looking at the aesthetic "Instinct" walk to the far right side of the face. This problem climbs the right arete.

One can shimmy down the gum tree and hang from the lowest branch and jump onto pads for the downclimb or head over towards "White Trash" and downclimb there. When using the tree, remember branches are stronger the closer you grab them to the tree trunk.

Protection

6 or more pads.

Photos