5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Page Views:||177 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Edge on Feb 23, 2022|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
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Start on some straightforward 5.10 jug pulling, get established near the left arete and clip bolt 4. Discover for yourself the meaning of the "infamous F.T.D. move" from the Watts description. I won't spoil it, but for some I believe it could be more of an F.T.V. move.
Persevere through this to a decent stance. For whatever reason, bolt 5 is still about a mile away. Clip the double length sling you (hopefully) pre-hung on it from this stance.
Next, decide if you want to do the top crux the easy way, the hard way, the harder way, the really hard way, or the really really hard way.
Clip the last bolt, and cruise to the anchors. Congratulations, you have great technique and flexible hips!
I'd say four stars if the hard climbing lasted just a little longer and the Tomb of Love holds didn't lie in the path of least resistance at the top. But the lower crux was so good I'm saying four stars anyway.
One route to the right of Tomb of Love which it shares anchors with. On a flat face panel with a blunt arete on the left side of the route. Starts behind a tree sized bush thing that you lower directly into after. Route starts up on a 10 ft ledge.