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Routes in (zz) Upper Gorge
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[Redacted] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Animation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Approach Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Aquarius/Let the Sunshine In T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Atlas Shrugged S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bangstick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Tuna S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Black Nails S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blame it on Rio T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blind Dogs Need Bones Too S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bushwhacker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Calliope S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Celibate Wives S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chillin’ in the Penzo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Colorsplash T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Conflicted Goddess S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Controlled Hysteria S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cranking with Kari S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cruisin' for a Bruisin' S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Drepane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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E-Type Jag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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E-Type Shag S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easy for Some S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Empty-Headed Hound S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gapers on a Tangent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Groove Cat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hail Mary T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Hieroglyphics S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Lava S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Just Do It T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karma is my Boyfriend S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kid'n Play S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Land of the Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mojomatic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Natural Art S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Naxis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peruvian Skies S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pink Primitive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Seep, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shark Infested Waters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sign Of The Priest, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Special Effects S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starkist S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tomb of Love S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Unique Monique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Up Country S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Urge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Vibe Like That S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Virtual Beach S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Yellow Fin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Frizzell |
| Page Views: | 325 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Edge on Feb 23, 2022 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Start on some straightforward 5.10 jug pulling, get established near the left arete and clip bolt 4. Discover for yourself the meaning of the "infamous F.T.D. move" from the Watts description. I won't spoil it, but for some I believe it could be more of an F.T.V. move.
Persevere through this to a decent stance. For whatever reason, bolt 5 is still about a mile away. Clip the double length sling you (hopefully) pre-hung on it from this stance.
Next, decide if you want to do the top crux the easy way, the hard way, the harder way, the really hard way, or the really really hard way.
Clip the last bolt, and cruise to the anchors. Congratulations, you have great technique and flexible hips!
I'd say four stars if the hard climbing lasted just a little longer and the Tomb of Love holds didn't lie in the path of least resistance at the top. But the lower crux was so good I'm saying four stars anyway.
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