V12+ YDS 8A+ Font PG13
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Boulder, 35 ft (11 m)|
|Page Views:||214 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Deuto on Feb 15, 2022|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
I’m really proud of how this thing turned out. This is in a 35 foot long cave with a perfect start and a pure line. It’s roadside, physical, cryptic, and fun. The hardest moves are solid and safe, with a good landing, while the finish is less secure, blocky climbing. This climb’s obvious downside is the rock quality, and I’d consider it my “Frankenstein’s Monster” line for sure. If you are like me and don’t mind the choss, you’ll have a blast. Either way, I put lots of time into cleaning the cave, and despite some hollow sounding flakes and occasional scrape, the route is quite solid now.
Begin sitting on a huge, slanted jug shelf in the very back of the roof. Immediately fight through poor crimps made climbable by utilizing a massive heel-toe cam. Viciously swing to some blocks near the end of the low roof, and rest up at the beginning of the stand start: Buttercubes. 25 more moves of Rifle style kneebars and cryptic sequences over a worsening landing give way to jugs on the cave’s far right side. It’s possible to top out a bit earlier certainly, but it wouldn’t be easier, and it’s just choss.
Essentially the problem is a short, hard V12 sequence to a pumpy V9 finish. Normally that wouldn’t be enough difficulty to upgrade a V12, but the ending is so involved that I figured it could be 8b. Enjoy.
It is the only line in the Choss Cave. From a jug at the back of the low roof, climb all the way out and right of the cave. See the rough topo for better imaging.