Type: Trad, Mixed, 820 ft (248 m), 5 pitches
FA: Yannick Girard & Jean-Pierre Ouellette, 22/12/2002
Page Views: 131 total · 8/month
Shared By: Philip McAllister on Feb 15, 2022
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland

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Access Issue: This area is within a Sépaq park, you need to have a park pass to climb here. Details

Description

P1 (35m , M5+) : Start straight under the dihedral. Go toward the roof and go right in the right-side dihedral. Belay on two old pitons.

P2 (35m , M6) : Find a way to traverse right in the first few meters to reach a fist size crack. Belay on natural pros.

P3 (60m, M6) : Traverse right for to meter in the horizontal cracks at folow a finger size crack to a snow ledge. 

P4 & 5 (120m) : Take the easier way on snow, ice and rock between the bigger rock walls.

Follow the summer trail for the descent.

I didin't lead and don't have a lot of experience on this mountain but few sections have long runouts and few places where falling is not an option. However, no loose rock.

Location

Take the normal approach trail and go right at the junction toward Hals-und Beinbruch. At the north end of the cliff, there is two massive dihedrals forming a Y shape.  

Same start as ''Sinus'', a summer route.

Protection

Double rack #0.2 to #4 + short screws

Photos

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