All Locations > California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Inner Gorge > DMZ

Smash To Black

Name: Smash To Black
Rating: 3.6

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in DMZ

L › R R › L A › Z

	[Redacted] S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Another Brick S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Berlin Wall S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Brandenburg Gate S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Breaking the Law S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Checkpoint Charlie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cobbler's Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Come of Age S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Doesn't Anybody Work Around Here? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Easy Enough S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fingertip Ledge of Contentment S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gecko S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	No Fly Zone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Propaganja S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pump Up the Trust Fund S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Smash To Black S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Take the Shot S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tear Me Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Transcendence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wild Humans S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

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Type:	Sport, 135 ft (41 m)
FA:	Patrick O'Donnell, Brendan Cathcart January 2022
Page Views:	600 total · 38/month
Shared By:	Patrick O'Donnell on Feb 14, 2022 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

Start uphill and right of Transcendence and Fantasia, but left of Easy Enough. Start in a hand crack. Clip the first bolt after a couple moves, then move up and left on the face. Clip the 2nd bolt (long sling recommended) and unclip the first bolt behind you. This is to prevent rope drag. Move up and left on very easy terrain. Clip the next 2 bolts (long slings recommended). Eventually you get to a no-hands stance below an overhanging section of orange rock with huge jugs. Climb this super fun section for 4 more bolts at a grade of easy 5.10. You will get to another ledge where you will find an anchor (not needed unless you lower-pull-lower with a 70m rope). From here harder climbing begins. Clip the anchor and stand up to find an overhang bulge cruxy section. Clip the next bolt BUT UNCLIP the anchor to avoid rope drag. After navigating the bulge continue into the beautiful headwall with impeccable gorge gray rock. At the top of the headwall, before the very last overhang, is the crux. The crux was meant to be climbed direct, and falls in the line of the bolts, but you could stay right and avoid the crux at 11a/b, however it will be harder to clip the bolt out left. Finish by climbing the overhang and clipping at anchor. An 80m rope will get you down safely BUT IT IS VERY CLOSE TO THE END OF THE ROPE. TIE A KNOT!