Smash To Black
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 9 votes
|Type:||Sport, 135 ft (41 m)|
|FA:||Patrick O'Donnell, Brendan Cathcart January 2022|
|Page Views:||600 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick O'Donnell on Feb 14, 2022 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Start uphill and right of Transcendence and Fantasia, but left of Easy Enough. Start in a hand crack. Clip the first bolt after a couple moves, then move up and left on the face. Clip the 2nd bolt (long sling recommended) and unclip the first bolt behind you. This is to prevent rope drag. Move up and left on very easy terrain. Clip the next 2 bolts (long slings recommended). Eventually you get to a no-hands stance below an overhanging section of orange rock with huge jugs. Climb this super fun section for 4 more bolts at a grade of easy 5.10. You will get to another ledge where you will find an anchor (not needed unless you lower-pull-lower with a 70m rope). From here harder climbing begins. Clip the anchor and stand up to find an overhang bulge cruxy section. Clip the next bolt BUT UNCLIP the anchor to avoid rope drag. After navigating the bulge continue into the beautiful headwall with impeccable gorge gray rock. At the top of the headwall, before the very last overhang, is the crux. The crux was meant to be climbed direct, and falls in the line of the bolts, but you could stay right and avoid the crux at 11a/b, however it will be harder to clip the bolt out left. Finish by climbing the overhang and clipping at anchor. An 80m rope will get you down safely BUT IT IS VERY CLOSE TO THE END OF THE ROPE. TIE A KNOT!