Avg: 3.3 from 87
votes
This route was developed ground up Solo over 5 weeks and offers fantastic views of Hidalgo at an obtainable grade. Most of the climbing is 5.8 and 5.9 with a few short boulder problems mixed in.
Pitch 1 - 5.9 25 m 12 bolts Mostly easy face climbing with a tricky move to the belay ledge.
Pitch 2 - 5.8 23 m 10 bolts enjoyable climbing utilizing cracks and corners.
Pitch 3 - 5.8 37 m 14 bolts not the best pitch on the route, starts on a easy corner but finishes on some fun exposed features. Climb past the rap station to the base of the 4th pitch. There are two bolts at chest height below the crack of P4 to belay from.
Pitch 4 - 5.11- 20 m 9 bolts Amazing crack system that will keep you on your toes. Crack climbing skills will help you on this short but technical pitch.
Pitch 5 - 5.10 33m 13 bolts Great series of moves for the first 30ft that will make you think leads to easier climbing.
From the anchor of pitch 5 climb 30ft of 3rd/4th class with a past 2 bolts to base of pitch 6 and a fairly flat ledge
Pitch 6 - 5.8 25m 9 bolts Standard EPC face climbing.
Pitch 7 - 5.10- 25m 12 bolts A short crack boulder problem then easier climbing leads to one more short crux then easy face climbing to the anchor.
Pitch 8 - 5.10- 25m 9 bolts tricky move down low then stranded EPC face climbing with great holds.
Pitch 9 - 5.10 25m 10 bolts A bit of slab climbing leads to a short roof, 25ft later you have one more move that makes you think then relaxed climbing to the anchor.
Pitch 10 - 5.10- 30m 11 bolts A short crux under an over hang leads to a fun move to access the exposed arete. Easy face climbing to the anchors
Pitch 11- 5.9 30m 9 bolts Starts left of the anchor on the arete one move later your on fun move heading towards the summit. Finishes with 20 feet of dirty gully climbing to an amazing spire summit.
Rap the route with a 70M. All standard raps down the route. When arriving at the pitch 6 belay anchor walk with the fix ropes to pitch 5 anchor to continue rapping. When rapping pitch 4 go to the lower anchor with the chain links.
Follow the trail towards Sendero luminous/Plutonia Cave. Take the trail to Plutonia cave. After arriving at the cave there's a well marked trail heading uphill on the right side of the cave. Follow the cairns to the base of the climb.The route is obvious.
Note: continue past the first climb along the trail with orange cordelette anchors, this is an unfinished route not When You're Lost in the Wild.
14 draws and 70M rope
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Denver, CO
One bolt in the middle was spinning pretty bad (I can't remember the exact pitch, between 5 and 7) and 2 others had slightly loose nuts that we got finger tight, but with how closely bolted the route is it never felt unsafe. Really nice work, Ian, I hope people suck up the (by most other areas, pretty average) approach and enjoy this secluded adventure.
If you're climbing it in the coming days/weeks, it's going to be dirty. It's new. We pulled off maybe 2 or 3 actual rocks and holds but for the most part we just got a pebble/dirt shower after pulling our ropes. Nothing too dangerous but I would definitely not climb under another party on this for a bit. Feb 18, 2022
Carlsbad, CA
Massachusetts
Bethlehem, NH
Denver, CO.
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Don't expect to be the only party going for this one on a hot day.
Being a new route, I'll echo the comments that you probably don't want to be climbing underneath another party, especially during their rappels. Pitches 1-5 are generally right on top of each other, and pitches 6-11 are generally on top of each other.
We had one stuck rope during the rappels, I believe it was pitch 5. There is a large horn right in the path of the rope, and I assume we won't be the only ones that happens to. Luckily, that feature is only 5 bolts up the pitch, so it was easy to re-lead that section and free the rope.
We climbed this on a day forecasted to be 88 degrees F and we were wearing our puffy jackets for the final 2 pitches. It can be a windy and cold little micro-climate where this route is, be prepared for that and choose the right day to climb it. Jan 29, 2023
Philadelphia, PA
There is an unfinished route to climbers left, as of now there is an orange sling 20-30 ft up on it, that route is not "When you're Lost" large loose blocks, lots of dirt and vegetation. Pass the first route, lost in the wild is about 20 meters higher up the canyon.
Well thought out. Great work! Feb 28, 2023
To find the path to Sendero/Plutonia, take a right immediately after the hand-drawn sign at the trailhead. (Don’t go toward El Bobo and then try to cut across toward Sendero. Lots of scree if you go this way.)
Once past Plutonia the scree will eventually become quite steep. Following the cairns up the scree is your best bet.
The route was a blast! It was a great closer to our trip. No issues with rock quality although we started cautiously until we were confident in it. Echoing the above sentiments- very impressed that Ian put this up by himself! Oct 24, 2023
Fredericton, NB
The long approach is worth it and makes the route feel like a full day adventure.
Thanks Ian for putting this up for all to enjoy! Feb 22, 2024
San Francisco, CA
P1-3 were weird and felt like approach pitches to me. The 11b was really fun and will be very hard if you don't know finger crack technique, and pretty doable if you do.
Also, we did it on an 83 degree day w/ 10-15 mph winds and I didn't need a puffy. Only a light windbreaker w/ my sun hoody. Dec 27, 2024
Bend, OR
Seneca Rocks, WV
I thought the movement was pretty fun, the bolting was excellent, but I was constantly worried about loose rock and can confirm there are many large, loose blocks.
Have a backup climb in the wings in case someone beats you to this climb; I might say I wouldn’t be caught dead climbing behind another party on this, but I very well could! Jan 16, 2026