Type: Sport, 1100 ft (333 m), 11 pitches
FA: Ian Lingley (Feb 8 2022)
Page Views: 1,756 total · 110/month
Shared By: Ian Lingley on Feb 9, 2022 · Updates
Admins: MAKB, Rudy Peckham, Hank Caylor, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route

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This route was developed ground up Solo over 5 weeks and offers fantastic views of Hidalgo at an obtainable grade. Most of the climbing is 5.8 and 5.9 with a few short boulder problems mixed in. 

Pitch 1 - 5.9 25 m 12 bolts Mostly easy face climbing with a tricky move to the belay ledge.

Pitch 2 - 5.8 23 m 10 bolts enjoyable climbing utilizing cracks and corners.

Pitch 3 - 5.8  37 m 14 bolts not the best pitch on the route, starts on a easy corner but finishes on some fun exposed features. Climb past the rap station to the base of the 4th pitch. There are two bolts at chest height below the crack of P4 to belay from.

Pitch 4 - 5.11-  20 m 9 bolts Amazing crack system that will keep you on your toes. Crack climbing skills will help you on this short but technical pitch.

Pitch 5 - 5.10 33m  13 bolts Great series of moves for the first 30ft that will make you think leads to easier climbing.

From the anchor of pitch 5 climb 30ft of 3rd/4th class with a past 2 bolts to base of pitch 6 and a fairly flat ledge

Pitch 6 - 5.8 25m 9 bolts Standard EPC face climbing.

Pitch 7 - 5.10- 25m 12 bolts A short crack boulder problem then easier climbing leads to one more short crux then easy face climbing to the anchor.

Pitch 8 - 5.10- 25m 9 bolts tricky move down low then stranded EPC face climbing with great holds.

Pitch 9 - 5.10 25m 10 bolts A bit of slab climbing leads to a short roof, 25ft later you have one more move that makes you think then relaxed climbing to the anchor.

Pitch 10 - 5.10-  30m 11 bolts A short crux under an over hang leads to a fun move to access the exposed arete. Easy face climbing to the anchors

Pitch 11- 5.9 30m 9 bolts Starts left of the anchor on the arete one move later your on fun move heading towards the summit. Finishes with 20 feet of dirty gully climbing to an amazing spire summit.

Rap the route with a 70M. All standard raps down the route. When arriving at the pitch 6 belay anchor walk with the fix ropes to pitch 5 anchor to continue rapping.  When rapping pitch 4 go to the lower anchor with the chain links. 


Follow the trail towards Sendero luminous/Plutonia Cave. Take the trail to Plutonia cave. After arriving at the cave there's a well marked trail heading uphill on the right side of the cave. Follow the cairns to the base of the climb.The route is obvious. 

Note: continue past the first climb along the trail with orange cordelette anchors, this is an unfinished route not When You're Lost in the Wild.


14 draws and 70M rope