Incantation Revelation

Incantation is a wonderful single pitch route on the right side of sector Shaman that was up opened up by Swiss climber, Olivier Nicolet in March 2015.

Incantation Revelation is a high-quality multi-pitch extension of Incantation that continues to the top of Indian Man (The prominent cliff face in Datça). This was the first sport route to tackle the headwall in its entirety and was opened up in January of 2022 through a team effort by traveling Alaskan, German and British climbers.  (Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & Cameron Clouston)

Incantation Revelation can be done in  three or four pitches, depending on whether or not one wants to skip the third pitch intermediate anchor. The climbing style is varied and rock quality is consistently high from top to bottom, making for a wonderful climbing experience if one is able to pull the grade. The bolt spacing is user-friendly and consistent with the president that has been on most routes in Datça.  

P1. 7a+, 20 bolts, 46 meters.  Start up Incantation for a high-quality face climbing experience on glew-in bolts for 33 meters. Continue another 13 meters past the Incantation anchor on expansion bolts up the steep and sometimes intimidating looking face, trending slightly right near the top. Cauliflower rock may rough but there is a path through and a great deal of beautiful climbing beyond. In dry conditions you can enjoy jugs and side pulls to the right. If the tufa is seeping it may be a better option to punch straight up the face where you will discover a two bolt anchor that is located at the first large ledge in the dihedral directly above a cave.

P2. 7a+/b, 14 bolts, 34 meters.  Climb from the nice belay ledge and trend slightly left on steep balancey arete / inside corner moves. Pull onto high quality face climbing through vertical terrain before the angle eases off but the difficulty does not. Take your time at the ledge before firing off one last three bolt sequence at a steep arete before reaching a set of chains at a comfy belay. (Though to on-sight is the reason for the 7b grade)

P3+4.  7a, 19 draws 44 meters. From the belay, follow bolts up the arete to a sloped ledge for an nice rest. Pull through a steep section of technical climbing before entering into a dihedral. At the 22 meter mark you will encounter a two-bolt anchor that can be used as an intermediate belay

P4. If you choose not to link the last two pitches you may enjoy a comfy belay with a view before firing off the last 22 meters of 6c+ quality, steep climbing on the upper face to the top of the cliff. 

Descent:  

(Walk Off)   If conditions are windy it is highly advised to walk off and avoid rope snag potential. Continue from the two bolt chain anchor at the top of the steep climbing and scramble an additional 10 meters.  These fourth class moves are protected by 1 bolt and will lead to a two bolt anchor with no rap rings located beyond the top of the cliff. Walk / scramble third class terrain, trending left and uphillfor about 150 meters. Always stay within 10 meters of the ridge line until you reach the summit and be cautious not to knock loose rocks over the edge of the cliff where climbers may be located below. Continue to follow the ridge left and downhill for another 200 meters until you arrive at the saddle. From the saddle follow a trail and karens (rock piles) downhill staying roughly 10 m away from the base of the cliff and work your way to sector Nastrolopitheque. Continue on the well-established approach trail to Sektor Shaman.

(Rappel)  If wind is not a factor you can descend to the route using a variety of anchors from a variety of climbs including Incantation Revelation or Abusez moi ! The most straightforward is listed below.

(80 meter rope) If you have an 80 meter rope  rappel directly down the chain anchors of Incantation Revelation.  Be sure to start with two short 22 meter raps that avoid rope snag potential.   Mind your rope ends because the last last rap is a rope stretcher that will get you safely to the ramp below yet still give you a couple meters of easy scrambling before arriving at flat ground.

Incantation Revelation is located on the right side of sector Shaman where the approach trail meets the cliff. Look for a shiny set of glue-in bolts one route to the left of a obvious cave feature 70 ft off the ground. Continue straight up the headwall to the top of the cliff.