Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | DV, Alex Willis, Zeb Hammerly (ground up) |
Page Views: | 402 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Dylan Valvo on Jan 31, 2022 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Description
Despite some on route bush whacking this is a fun jaunt that takes you right to the summit prow of The Devils Courthouse. As with many winter routes the more snow the better.
Pitch 1 This pitch was originally climbed by Jim Corbett and David Young. I have climbed this as a pure ice pitch (WI3+) or a mixed pitch when the ice down low isn’t good (M5 WI3). Either pull the roof into the corner and then cut onto the ice or climb the short curtain and climb all ice then romp up the gulley to the huge ledge.150’
Pitch 2 walk across the tree covered ledge under the large roof (obstacle course) till you reach the right facing corner which has a offwidth squeeze chimney feature mirroring it on the other side of the narrow face. Navigate cracks and thin ice till you cut underneath the roof at the top to the right. Curl back around left to a small ledge and belay 80’
Pitch 3 head up the icy chimney and pull the small roof. Push through bush to another small rock section and climb the corner then top out on the left hand side. 100’
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