Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: DV, Alex Willis, Zeb Hammerly (ground up)
Page Views: 402 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Jan 31, 2022
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

Despite some on route bush whacking this is a fun jaunt that takes you right to the summit prow of The Devils Courthouse. As with many winter routes the more snow the better.
Pitch 1 This pitch was originally climbed by Jim Corbett and David Young. I have climbed this as a pure ice pitch (WI3+) or a mixed pitch when the ice down low isn’t good (M5 WI3). Either pull the roof into the corner and then cut onto the ice or climb the short curtain and climb all ice then romp up the gulley to the huge ledge.150’
Pitch 2 walk across the tree covered ledge under the large roof (obstacle course) till you reach the right facing corner which has a offwidth squeeze chimney feature mirroring it on the other side of the narrow face. Navigate cracks and thin ice till you cut underneath the roof at the top to the right. Curl back around left to a small ledge and belay 80’
Pitch 3 head up the icy chimney and pull the small roof. Push through bush to another small rock section and climb the corner then top out on the left hand side. 100’

Location Suggest change

This route is on the east side of the catwalk. Obvious water drainage in a huge right facing corner. 

Protection Suggest change

Cams from .3-3” a small handful of ice screws. A 5”cam can be nice for pitch 2

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