Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pellet/Abbott 2/97
Page Views: 406 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mark Bealor on Jan 29, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Arguably better, and certainly more varied and interesting than PT.

I've only ever climbed the first two pitches and then rapped so can't really say I've climbed the route, but P1 & 2 are so good I wanted to share.

Basically, climb the Thunderhead (summer route) corner on thin ice and mixed (some good rock pro) to just below the massive roof (good and thick ice typical here). Now make a thin and somewhat runout traverse right (small c3's, exciting for both ends of the rope). Build a rock belay at the end of the traverse.

The second lead makes some hard moves up and right into the obvious and thinly iced steep gully. Sustained challenges and some creative protection lead to the treed terrace.

Continue on ice, or one rap with double 60's.

Location Suggest change

Walk right from the obvious Neurosis climb for about 3 minutes.

Start in the big Thunderhead corner below the massive roof that is 80' up.

Protection Suggest change

Rock gear to #3, include small cams for traverse. On P2 you may want pins and a few bulldogs.
Ice screws including a few short/stubby.

Photos

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