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Number One - Cavil
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Galactica Wall
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Caprica Six T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gaius Baltower - Number Eight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Number One - Cavil T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Number Three - D'Anna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.54554, -109.70539 |
| FA: | Pitch 1: Unknown, Pitch 2/3 Daniel Lay 1/2022 |
| Page Views: | 388 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Colten Lay on Jan 9, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb a small crumbly section to gain and handcrack. After the handcrack dive into a small chimney and come out the lip with some hard offwidth moves. The rest of the pitch tapers from fists to hands. 5.11+ ~75'
Pitch 2: Climb on suspect rock for several moves and dive into a deep chimney. Chimney climb to the lip/roof of the chimney and pull out onto the crack with some hand/fist stacking or other OW techniques. The rest of the pitch varies from fist cracks to small hand cracks. 5.11 ~110'
Pitch 3: Climb short left facing corner to a ledge on the right. Protected by 2 bolts because of rock quality.Traverse right a few feet, then finish on low 5th. 5.9, 30'. Pitch shared with Caprica Six.
Rap route with 70 meter rope.
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