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Routes in The Galactica Wall
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Caprica Six T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gaius Baltower - Number Eight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Number One - Cavil T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Number Three - D'Anna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.54554, -109.70539 |
| FA: | Pitch 1-2 Unknown, Pitch 3-4: Daniel Lay 1/2022 |
| Page Views: | 483 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Colten Lay on Jan 9, 2022 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Pitch 1: Start a handcrack that gradually opens to BD#4 just before the anchor. 5.10+, ~55'
Pitch 2: Hand-Fist stack your way up #5's for a while, then it gradually turns to #4's before it turns into very wide chimney climbing. 5.11 ~95'
Pitch 3: Climb a left facing corner that can be protected with a #6 and #7 or Green Bros. Arrive at massive ledge. 5.11, ~40'
Pitch 4: Climb short left facing corner to a ledge on the right. Protected by 2 bolts because of rock quality.Traverse right a few feet, then finish on low 5th. This pitch is shared with 'Cavil'. 5.9, ~30'
Rap 'Number One - Cavil' with one 70 Rope.
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