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High Energy Plan

5.12b, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Mike Heintz, late 80's
Massachusetts > Western MA > Rose Ledge > 02 - Main Face

Description

This climbs the face between Delany's Arete and Solar Flare. The crux is a traverse move right to reach the diagonal slashes up high. It is named for a song by the British punk band 999.

Protection

It is almost leadable. One or two bolts would do the trick.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A photo of the route.
[Hide Photo] A photo of the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
[Hide Comment] I think this is harder than 12a IMO. Still a no lead bolt ethic at Rose. Jan 23, 2022
Mike Heintz
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I think I used to call it 12b, but for some reason Al Rubin down-graded all my Rose Ledge routes in his first guidebook. Hopefully there will be a consensus correction. Jan 23, 2022
Eric Sutton
[Hide Comment] I sure think your climb is harder than that, Mike. Nov 11, 2022
Eric Sutton
[Hide Comment] Hi, Ward. Nov 11, 2022
Mike Heintz
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Ok, I upped it to 12b (for now). I confess, it's what I always thought anyway. Nov 12, 2022
Alan Rubin
[Hide Comment] Hi Mike, I don’t think that I downgraded your routes , including this one. For routes that were above my ‘pay grade’ , I used the grades from the FA or others who had done them, sometimes if there was uncertainty I used alternate grades (10+/11-). I also didn’t use letter grades. So for HEP, I graded it ‘12’ — which directly equates to 12b or c, so consistent with your opinion. Nov 13, 2022
Mike Heintz
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Sorry if I got that wrong, Al. I was remembering your first guide, the little pink booklet, not the newer one, and it was a long time ago. I thought you had lowered it to 11+, but I apologize if that's not true. I live on the West Coast now, so I never bought your updated guide. Perhaps I'll order a copy. Nov 13, 2022