Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 11 pitches
FA: Brian Prince, Josef Maier 11/2021
Page Views: 981 total · 42/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Jan 4, 2022
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Intro Suggest change

This is yet another route Leversee had hidden away deep in his "black book" of route ideas. We were both attracted by the P5 corner, a beautiful feature. I made several trips down the route over a few years, with a lot of help from my friend Chris Koppl. Joe rallied to help finish equipping it and sent the crux from the ground like a boss so we could get this thing done before the season ended again. 

Route is very well protected/bolted. A particularly nice feature at a cliff where you basically must top out. Cruxes are all somewhat short and can be pulled through, making this route very doable for the grade. Mostly friendly face climbing that goes quick with predominantly amazing belay ledges. Gear only needed for P1, 2, and 5. All anchors bolted.

Description Suggest change

P1 - 5.10 - 65m - 9 bolts + int. rap anchor and #0.4-1 - Layback flake to steep face climbing to int. rap anchor. Climbing gets easy and slightly run out to the top. 

P2 - 5.9 - 35m - 4 bolts and #0.4-0.75 - Move belay to higher ledge. Clean layback to face. Great ledge.

P3 - 5.10+ - 55m - 18 bolts - Thin seam leads to ledges to corner. Bust out of corner and enjoy nice face climbing to stance. 

P4 - 5.10- - 35m - 12 bolts + int. rap anchor - Leftward dike traverse to great ledge.

P5 - 5.10 - 45m from right anchor - 6 bolts and gear - Wander up and left on face guided by bolts to glory corner. Eventually, bust left around the arete and mantle to anchor. 

P6 - 5.11 - 20m - 7 bolts - Thin crimps to nice flake.

P7 - 5.11+ - 35m - 14 bolts - Desperate slab to awesome roof to awesome ledge.

P8 - 5.11+ - 25m - 9 bolts + int. rap anchor - Hard moves into flake and then easier face to anchor.

P9 - 5.12 - 20m - 12 bolts - Burly layback off belay to get established on face out left. Tricky and then pumpy climbing over steep bulge with big exposure. Great ledge. Sweet

P10 - 5.9 - 35m - 8 bolts - Straight up off the belay on knobs and then wander up and right to beginning of huge dike. 

P11 - 5.5 - 70m - 6 bolts - Hike up the dike to a bolted anchor right below the vegetated rim. 

Approach Suggest change

14 raps with 1x70m rope. An 80m could make it slightly more convenient. Use the same approach trail as for Sunset Buttress. Once in the open slab area at the top of the cliff, walk skier's left 100 yards or so and go as far as you can until continuing would involve bushwhacking. Look for a two bolt anchor out over the edge. All rap anchors have rings (don't steal them) except the top of P2, P1 and int. rap anchor on P1. These require leaving draws, but this is fine as you need 18 for the route and will have enough. Mostly rap the route with some notes below:

From the top, 3 off-route raps will take you to top of P9. Angle to climber’s right on each one. Take approach shoes to here at least.

From top of P9, go 35m to int. rap anchor on P8. Skip P8 belay anchor. Then short one to top of P7. (Could probably combine with an 80m)

From top of pitch 5, rap 35m to intermediate anchor on big ledge, angling right, then walk climber’s right 10m on ledge to next one. 

From this anchor (top of P4), a short rap leads to int. anchor on P4. 

From here, a 35m rap leads straight down to an off-route station. 

From here, 35m rap to top of P2. Angle right.

Descent Suggest change

From top anchor on route, head right a bit and up. Go up from the rim 50-100 feet or so and the traverse back left to your packs should involve minimal bushwhacking.

Protection Suggest change

18 draws. Single set fingers to #2 with extra #1 and #2 for P5 handcrack being very optional.