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El Gavilan

5.13a, Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
FA: FA Jeff Jackson, Ben Fink, Rick Watson. FFA Jeff Jackson, Kevin Gallagher (1999)
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > La Popa Routes

Description

A wildly overhanging fully bolted and incredibly sustained multi-pitch following a steep orange
corner system dripping with tufas — bring your kneepad!


Pitch 1 (12a): Worst pitch of the route. Vertical crimping on thin glued flakes.
Pitch 2 (12d): Bouldery crux off the anchor into fun tufa climbing to a reachy finish.
Pitch 3 (13a): Incredible, long and sustained pitch following a slightly overhanging shallow
arching corner. Stem and crimp up the corner and clip the chains before the pump sends you
flying!
Pitch 4 (12b): Short and punchy up steep tufas into easier corner climbing above.
Pitch 5 (12a): A change of pace. Vertical crimps up a smooth face. Fun movement. The line of
rusty bolts going straight up was a dead-end during the ground up FA.
Pitch 6 (12c): The first roof. Tufa hug and knee bar your way to a cryptic crux at the lip.
Pitch 7 (12d): The second roof and redpoint crux. Stem up the beautiful long corner at about 12a into a wildly exposed boulder problem through the roof. So good!
Pitch 8 (12b): Originally punched straight up off the anchor at 12d, but now starts up the easy
ramp and then continues up the beautiful grey limestone, through the unexpected hueco bucket jugs! Pull a little crux at the overlap and traverse over to the anchor.
Pitch 9 (11c): The original finish quested off to the left (old rusty bolts remain). The new direct
finish goes straight up following the obvious fun finger crack. Romp the easy slab to the summit!

Location

See La Popa Routes area description for approach beta.

Protection

Fully bolted, including rap rings. All bolts replaced in 2019 and 2021.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The wildly exposed upper crux (pitch 7). Photo by Savannah Cummins
[Hide Photo] The wildly exposed upper crux (pitch 7). Photo by Savannah Cummins
Gavilan from the start
[Hide Photo] Gavilan from the start

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Drew Marshall
Squamish, BC
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] One of the most outrageous routes I've ever done!

Belay seat is mandatory, every belay is hanging
We brought 18 draws and a 70m rope but you could maybe get away with less

Huge props to Bronwyn, Kelsie and friends for reviving this classic Jan 21, 2022
Oliver Schmidt
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] Fun route with way more corner climbing than expected. The tick marks that are currently in place on all the pitches makes for convenient climbing similar to sport climbing crags.
There are two ways to get from the top to the base. We did both and they both have their issues. You have to decide whether you prefer steep rappels with lots of swinging and directionals or rapping and walking through cacti. It takes about 25 min to get to the start of the route from the end of the shorter rap line and it's on a very faint trail.
All the grades minus the fourth pitch are soft even for Mexican standards.
The route was seeping (still climbable) on pitch two when we did about a week after major rain so maybe don't go there too soon after precipitation. Mar 9, 2024
Jeff Jackson
Makawao, HI
[Hide Comment] Aloha Mountain Proj. Psyched to see this here and doubly glad that the hardware got a much needed revamp. Just an update to the route description above: Kev and I freed this route in 1997 not 1999. We approached from the base, 2.5 hours uphill, which made the whole thing a bit more gnarly. Go get 'em ... 17 hours ago