Type: | Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches |
FA: | FA Jeff Jackson, Ben Fink, Rick Watson. FFA Jeff Jackson, Kevin Gallagher (1999) |
Page Views: | 2,401 total · 64/month |
Shared By: | Bronwyn Hodgins on Jan 3, 2022 |
Admins: | Rudy Peckham, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
A wildly overhanging fully bolted and incredibly sustained multi-pitch following a steep orange
corner system dripping with tufas — bring your kneepad!
Pitch 1 (12a): Worst pitch of the route. Vertical crimping on thin glued flakes.
Pitch 2 (12d): Bouldery crux off the anchor into fun tufa climbing to a reachy finish.
Pitch 3 (13a): Incredible, long and sustained pitch following a slightly overhanging shallow
arching corner. Stem and crimp up the corner and clip the chains before the pump sends you
flying!
Pitch 4 (12b): Short and punchy up steep tufas into easier corner climbing above.
Pitch 5 (12a): A change of pace. Vertical crimps up a smooth face. Fun movement. The line of
rusty bolts going straight up was a dead-end during the ground up FA.
Pitch 6 (12c): The first roof. Tufa hug and knee bar your way to a cryptic crux at the lip.
Pitch 7 (12d): The second roof and redpoint crux. Stem up the beautiful long corner at about 12a into a wildly exposed boulder problem through the roof. So good!
Pitch 8 (12b): Originally punched straight up off the anchor at 12d, but now starts up the easy
ramp and then continues up the beautiful grey limestone, through the unexpected hueco bucket jugs! Pull a little crux at the overlap and traverse over to the anchor.
Pitch 9 (11c): The original finish quested off to the left (old rusty bolts remain). The new direct
finish goes straight up following the obvious fun finger crack. Romp the easy slab to the summit!
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