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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
> Cap Rock
> Cap Rock - S Face
Nose to the Grindstone
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in Cap Rock - South Face
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Duncecap T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Eat Berthas Muscles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nose to the Grindstone T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Robocop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slim Pickings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slim Pickings Indirect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Slimmer Pickins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Terminator, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Visual Nightmare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | (TR) Mark and Shirley Spencer, 1986; First Lead: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon & Fred Ziel, January 1988 |
| Page Views: | 421 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Potter Wonderland on Jan 2, 2022 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the thin crack to the right of Slimmer Pickings. Start up an easy juggy crack to blocks. Once on the block you'll be at the start of the thin crack. Climb the thin crack to the top using locks and edges.
I did not lead this route but it climbs very well and was quite fun! Lead would be Bold, but it does seem to take thin gear. Miramontes gives this route a R rating
You can TR this route from the Slim pickings anchor, make a low 5th class traverse to the top of the thin crack, set a directional and have some fun!
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