Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 135 total · 6/month
Shared By: stevecurtis on Dec 26, 2021
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby

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Description Suggest change

Access a dihedral with one bolt.  Our guidebook called this dihedral 5.10.  I thought it was Yosemite 5.8 or 9. About 100 ft.  The second pitch passes two bolts and several vegetated areas.    Maybe a spot or two for pro.  Easy 5th class.  trends left somewhat.130 ft.  The third pitch is the crux and very much out of character for Brazil.  If you climbed here much you will do run out 5.9 or 10A, then a bolt ladder past climbing harder than 10C.  This pitch heads left to a bolt, then upwards through 5.9 or 10A vertical fun with a few cams for pro (#1,2,3 camalot).  Beyond this a bolt and some overhanging fun to two bolts.  Past a tough stance head directly left 8 or 10 ft to a very thin 11a crux.  Your swinging fall would be above a big overhang.  Above, there is a bolt to protect your second.  It was late and we bailed here.(our second route).  The 50 classics shows pitch 4 heading left past a second bolt, a #2 camalot placement further left.  Beyond this two more bolts leftward, then more leftward climbing and straight up to another bolt and the anchor.  5.9. 40 meters Pitch 5 shows more easy fifth class past a #3 camalot and two bolts 40 meters. Pitch 6   5.9 and 5 bolts.  mostly straight upward but somewhat left after the third.30 meters.  Pitch 7  easy fifth rightward past 2 bolts, a block and onto a ledge.  40 meters.

Easy walk off.  Or rappel from top to into a hole, then onto a tree with two 60 meters before rejoining the route.

Location Suggest change

Go to Perdo do Bau parking.  Go back20 to 50 ft and find a small trail through the jungle.  It quickly starts descending very steeply.  The 50 classic Brazil book says descend 7 minutes and then go left.  There is an overhanging boulder marking this intersection.  Traverse under the face of the bolder until you see an easily climbable dihedral accessed by a bolt.  50 Classics says 15 minutes.  It took us 45.

Protection Suggest change

mostly bolts. I had a double rack. a single to #3 is probably sufficient.


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