Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Lee Hansche Dec 2021
Page Views: 389 total · 16/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Dec 23, 2021
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Merriam Woods is conservation land, managed by the Town of Woodstock. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

All other attributes aside, just a magnificent place to climb. Once the big bad roof crack is clean and ready this route will lead you into that crazy finish. I thought that putting a sub-anchor where the climbing goes from "Woah" to "WHAT!?" was a nice thing to do since this face is excellent on it's own and it will allow us all to get up below the wild roof splitter and take it all in. 

Start from the same 2 bolt belay as for Golden Ratio (Accessed via the fixed rope on the left end of Jeremy's Wall ledge). Make a few tricky moves through the first overlaps. There are fun ways to do this and less fun ways. Look around. Climb easy low angle rock for a few bolts and then enter into the business as things get steeper. Climb out left on beautiful in-cut crimps. Things will get less defined quickly. Weave your way through the bolts and features identifying the path which is rarely immediately evident. Finally clip the anchor from a decent stance. It's good enough for a no hand rest but you wouldn't stop to eat your lunch there. Take in the sights and head back down. 

There are a couple of patches of less than stellar rock but 95% is really good so the show goes on but stay aware. Still trying to identify what might exfoliate at the start but I plan to clean it a little more. 

Location Suggest change

Telekinesis climbs the center of the big low angle face below the giant Main Cliff roof. Start at the 2 bolt belay anchor accessed via the fixed rope on the left end of Jeremy's Wall. Follow bolts up and trending left heading straight for the big roof crack. This route ends at a stance 10 feet below the roof where the wall blanks out. 

Accessed easily from the Jeremy's wall ledge this pitch is definitely in the center of Main Cliff but for the sake of making the layout easy to understand I will keep it here for now. 

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to quick clip anchor


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